Header stud extraction

I sheared off the threads of a header stud. Any advice? I sprayed with a penetrant last night and today I plan to drill into it and try an ez-out extractor. Then plan to make a new one out of a 6mm alloy steel screw.

You can buy studs at any dealer.

luckily you have stud left, heat at head, heat gun or propane, (remove tank),  al expands more than steel, studs are available, as per hrm, use never seize on install, good luck

Drill it? Unless I’m looking at the wrong stud you still have some exposed. Like mentioned. Heat, penetrate oil, and patients. Grip the stud as close to the head as possible. Loosen, tighten, loosen more, tighten, do this back and forth till it’s freed up. Caution, these can be deceiving and you can see the stud moving but it’s really twisting below the surface. I snapped 2 off thinking they were moving but not. Take your time. You could try several heat cycles before attempting to remove. Tapping on the stud sharply but not hard has also worked, as it shocks the stud releasing the bond. 

Thanks for all the advice. Torching it then working it back and forth with a vice grip did the trick. 

Can a head be damaged, (melted) when heated with a propane tourch?

NO NOT HOT ENOUGH

never Never NEVER use an ez-out for something like that.  It's virtually guranteed to break off before the old screw budges.

wrote:

Can a head be damaged, (melted) when heated with a propane tourch?

I used a MAPP gas torch which is hotter than propane and nothing melted. The aluminum dissipates the heat readily. Just be careful and don't aim it at gaskets or paint/plastic.
 

I'll chime in and say that I HAVE melted a piece of broken-off block with MAP gas. Just don't go crazy with it and you'll be okay.