Here's what I used to do, back in the day - I fabbed a plate out of 3/16" aluminum to replace the oil pan. So, remove the pan and oil pump and bolt on the flat plate. This gives you an extra 3/4" or so of working clearance. Also, you can now slide a floor jack, with a wooden block, underneath the motor to steady it while you remove the motor mount bolts. If your front and top rear motor mounts are tapped for 1/2"-13, then thread in some 6" long bolts to use as lifting handles. If motor mount holes are untapped, then use lengths of steel roundstock, as Warren had mentioned.
The one catch, using this method, is that you need to have a means to get the bike up off of the ground in order to slide the floor jack underneath it. Initially, I made up a bike stand with a removable center section. I later moved on to a Handy air lift. I mounted a Pingel wheel chock at the rear so that I could roll the front end of the dragbike up onto that, strap the bike in place, then lift the rear with a floorjack and place a stand underneath the rear slick. The pic at the bottom kinda gives you the idea.
Hope this helps and may every pass down the track be a straight one!
Mike