Engine removal

Hello All,
Wondering if anyone has a setup to pull the motor complete without laying the bike on its side and is willing to share some pics of it?? I built a drag bike and i know im gonna have the motor in and out several times a year. Thanks

Jack with a block on it. Take the weight, undo and remove the bolts, jack it a bit more, slide a couple of 10mm x 1m rods through the block mounts, person each side, lift it out using the rods as grip points.

Huh would have never thought 10 mm rods would hold the weight of the engine. I think i can adapt that for one person. Thank you

Here's what I used to do, back in the day - I fabbed a plate out of 3/16" aluminum to replace the oil pan.  So, remove the pan and oil pump and bolt on the flat plate.  This gives you an extra 3/4" or so of working clearance.  Also, you can now slide a floor jack, with a wooden block, underneath the motor to steady it while you remove the motor mount bolts.  If your front and top rear motor mounts are tapped for 1/2"-13, then thread in some 6" long bolts to use as lifting handles.  If motor mount holes are untapped, then use lengths of steel roundstock, as Warren had mentioned.  

The one catch, using this method, is that you need to have a means to get the bike up off of the ground in order to slide the floor jack underneath it.  Initially, I made up a bike stand with a removable center section.  I later moved on to a Handy air lift.  I mounted a Pingel wheel chock at the rear so that I could roll the front end of the dragbike up onto that, strap the bike in place, then lift the rear with a floorjack and place a stand underneath the rear slick.  The pic at the bottom kinda gives you the idea.

Hope this helps and may every pass down the track be a straight one!

Mike

 

Excuse the crude hand sketch. I saw something like this built once. It bolts to the head at the carb holder/manifold. I’d like comments from the forum.



 

Call me a dinosaur 

Simple is good

2 guys    plus broom handle and long threaded rod

Broom handle is strapped in place  between  exhaust  studs  , strap goes around back of head / block.   Now you have control of front of motor

Next push rod thru rear  top engine case    Nut in place  for no slip    Now you have control of rear of engine 

Lift out   Done 

We changed motors at the dragstrip  between rounds  

Now depending on frame configuration   rear rods can be placed in different  mount holes  to make this work
Hope this helps
Dave

wrote:

Excuse the crude hand sketch. I saw something like this built once. It bolts to the head at the carb holder/manifold. I’d like comments from the forum.



 

Seems like somebody here swore that was perfectly safe and reasonable. I still don’t believe it.

That plate bolted to the carb spigots  seems a little sketchy.

DragMike i like that idea with the oil pan. I am a one man band and my days of picking up 200+ lb motors are over...LOL

Attached is a picture of the steel plate that Mikaw referred to.  I don't recall the actual name of the person that made this plate for me , but his handle on this site was Hardgun I think.  He also made an engine stand for me.  The engine plate is made from .250" thick steel plate.  Unfortunately, by the time I received the plate I decided to not remove the engine and kept it in the bike, so I have no idea how it actually works.  There were some pics on the website of the plate in action as I recall.  I too wondered about the strength of the plate and tested it in a crude fashion.  I placed it over one of my basement I-beams with a rope thru the hole for the lift attachment and I hung from it.  It didn't break, nor even bend and I am 210 pounds.  One of my sons tried it with the same results and he weighs more than me.  So I have no doubt about the strength of this plate.  How well the attachment is made via the screws is the only variable in this that may lead to failure.  I think with decent bolts completely tightened to lock the plate on the engine there should be no issues.  I would not hesitate to use the plate.

Rick H.

I believe the plate shown above will work fine . 
I think my method works fine too.
So as Im 3 times the age I was when swapping motors  regularly  ( Bad Back , Ouch )  I would combine  the two methods  
 plate for lifting weight 
 rods and broom handle for more control 

oil pan  plate is cool  ,and protects  the lower case  but you still need to take the weight in hand  at some point to sneak  motor out the side of the frame 

Enjoy
Dave

The engine lift hook Mikaw referred to.

  
 
 
 
 
 
 

I have no doubt about the plate, my concern is over those eight small bolts tightened into soft, relatively thin, aluminum.