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Flywheel puller for KZ twins
- Pagala
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15 May 2021 07:12 #848465
by Pagala
1̶9̶8̶3̶ ̶K̶a̶w̶a̶s̶a̶k̶i̶ ̶G̶T̶5̶5̶0̶ ̶(̶U̶K̶-̶o̶n̶l̶y̶ ̶m̶o̶d̶e̶l̶)̶,̶ ̶a̶l̶s̶o̶ ̶k̶n̶o̶w̶n̶ ̶a̶s̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶Z̶5̶5̶0̶ ̶G̶1̶,̶ ̶r̶e̶g̶i̶s̶t̶e̶r̶e̶d̶ ̶i̶n̶ ̶1̶9̶8̶4̶.̶
1981 Kawasaki Z440 (KZ440C1)
Flywheel puller for KZ twins was created by Pagala
Bike: Kawasaki KZ440
OK guys, I know this is a dumb question so if you want to laugh at me I won't get touchy about it. But this is something I can't picture in my head.
What I need to do is service the starter clutch and put in new springs and rollers on my KZ440. I'm not going to get a specialist Kawasaki tool for this job.
By Googling, I reckon that a flywheel puller bolt (the sort that you screw in and then push from the middle) will need to be an M18 with a 1.5mm thread, as this seems to be the standard Kawasaki used for the flywheel retaining bolt recess.
However, would the flywheel puller tool (which is basically a bolt with a hole down it) need to have rh or lh threads?
As the crank turns backwards when the engine in running, this thread is reversed on the Kawasaki twins. Therefore turning the flywheel bolt clockwise loosens it, while turning it counter-clockwise tightens it.
Thanks
OK guys, I know this is a dumb question so if you want to laugh at me I won't get touchy about it. But this is something I can't picture in my head.
What I need to do is service the starter clutch and put in new springs and rollers on my KZ440. I'm not going to get a specialist Kawasaki tool for this job.
By Googling, I reckon that a flywheel puller bolt (the sort that you screw in and then push from the middle) will need to be an M18 with a 1.5mm thread, as this seems to be the standard Kawasaki used for the flywheel retaining bolt recess.
However, would the flywheel puller tool (which is basically a bolt with a hole down it) need to have rh or lh threads?
As the crank turns backwards when the engine in running, this thread is reversed on the Kawasaki twins. Therefore turning the flywheel bolt clockwise loosens it, while turning it counter-clockwise tightens it.
Thanks
1̶9̶8̶3̶ ̶K̶a̶w̶a̶s̶a̶k̶i̶ ̶G̶T̶5̶5̶0̶ ̶(̶U̶K̶-̶o̶n̶l̶y̶ ̶m̶o̶d̶e̶l̶)̶,̶ ̶a̶l̶s̶o̶ ̶k̶n̶o̶w̶n̶ ̶a̶s̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶Z̶5̶5̶0̶ ̶G̶1̶,̶ ̶r̶e̶g̶i̶s̶t̶e̶r̶e̶d̶ ̶i̶n̶ ̶1̶9̶8̶4̶.̶
1981 Kawasaki Z440 (KZ440C1)
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- DoctoRot
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22 May 2021 12:22 - 22 May 2021 12:23 #848874
by DoctoRot
Replied by DoctoRot on topic Flywheel puller for KZ twins
The 18mm-1.5 threads are used to push the rotor off the end of the crank and they are RH, nearly any M18-1.5 RH bolt will work for this. You can use a KZ750 twin or KZ1000 axle as they have this thread as well. You screw in to the rotor and it bottoms on the crank snout pushing the rotor off the taper. The hard part is holding the rotor without special tools. Not sure what torque is on the 440 but the KZ750 is 87-105 ft lbs so you need to be able to hold the engine from spinning, using a impact driver is not recommended here. You may be able to put it in high gear and mash the rear brake to keep the engine from spinning. I personally gave up on this technique. i use either a rotor holder or clutch tool to lock it up. makes it so much easier. you can get the clutch tool from EBC for about $30.
IMHO spending $40 to do the job correctly and easily is a no brainer - what is your time worth? I picked up a junk engine this year for parts and some dipshit tried to cram ball bearings in the crank snout to try and pop the rotor off. it destroyed the crank because there was no way to get them out after they were pressed in.
www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0116-Flywhe...d=1621710593&sr=8-15
IMHO spending $40 to do the job correctly and easily is a no brainer - what is your time worth? I picked up a junk engine this year for parts and some dipshit tried to cram ball bearings in the crank snout to try and pop the rotor off. it destroyed the crank because there was no way to get them out after they were pressed in.
www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0116-Flywhe...d=1621710593&sr=8-15
Last edit: 22 May 2021 12:23 by DoctoRot.
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