Another Oil Cooler Question

Hi-

   So I want to plumb an oil cooler onto my '78 Z1R TC.   Does having a turbo make any difference with respect to installing the cooler?  Except for a used Lockhart showing up
on Ebay every now and then, those aren't so available anymore.  Will probably go with an Earl's cooler if no one else on this list has a preferred or favorite.  The bike is slowly
coming down with a starter glitch.  It'll turn over solidly all day and start (as intended ) when the engine is cold.  But after it warms up, say you shut it off for a few minutes at a gas pump
then hit the button, the starter might (or might not) just spin without engaging the flywheel.  If it cools for 15 or 20 minutes, it will probably start just fine-

thanks!
bill


 

Bill
 I would get a Earls cooler over a lockhart .brand .
To install  turbo oil supply line just tap the  new oil  blocks  and it will be fine .
Please dont  try and reuse the stock transfer block  to run the  cooler with . 
. In fact please post a picture  or parts discription of what you are planning.
I have seen every possible abortion  used to plumb a added oil cooler over the years and want to help you avoid  the  bullshit.
I have heard that a certain Honda starter will work on our KZ 1000s but dont have details on which one . It is a higher torque unit. But stock will work too.
Best 
 Dave

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationThis is what I did.
Steve

It wasn't the battery it was the starter brushes.

Thanks, Dave-  I'm thinking the starter spins just fine so wondering if it IS the starter clutch but it's only a problem when heated up.  I was hoping the cooler might tilt the balance back
but a starter clutch rebuild kit might fit the bill.  Been hoping to avoid that- re: Starters- I have spare rebuilt starter from Rick's been sitting in a box.  But I keep wondering- the turbo
get really hot and it's no more than about 1.5" above the starter cover...

thanks, SW- interesting.

hope the weekend is good-
bill

wrote:

Thanks, Dave-  I'm thinking the starter spins just fine so wondering if it IS the starter clutch but it's only a problem when heated up.  I was hoping the cooler might tilt the balance back
but a starter clutch rebuild kit might fit the bill.  Been hoping to avoid that- re: Starters- I have spare rebuilt starter from Rick's been sitting in a box.  But I keep wondering- the turbo
get really hot and it's no more than about 1.5" above the starter cover...

My Turbo  has never caused a over heat  of the starter and I am running the one that came with my  bike. 
Turbos only put out lots of heat while on boost.
Compression  is stock unless you swapped pistons  , ( Mine are MTC  low compression turbo pistons ).
Turbos usually run cool as the motor has stock cams and   compression 
 

SF:   to tell ya the truth, I don't know what's been done to the motor but it was changed A LOT before I picked it up and USED to be one of the featured bikes on website exileturbo.com.
The website appears to be gone now but I've done a lot of "UN-Modifications" to make it a little more street friendly as it was a lot different that it looks now - but I didn't change the motor
at all. When I got the bike, there was little or no suspension (great for drag racing but no too street friendly).  There was a long extended 4 point swing arm and nicely done wide rear
wheel, an extra 15 degree rake  (which still exists) and a few electrical "mods".  According to the website (if I recall correctly) max boost was 30psi and 1/4 miles were mid 9s. I've removed the boost adjusting  handle  and passenger foot pegs to try and counter any possible temptations I might have on a nice day.
    For street use it should probably have an oil cooler. 

Hope the weekend is good!

Oil cooler would be nice  , but not needed unless
                                              1   You run the piss out of it all the time 
                                              2  You drive it  in very hot weather  all the time  ( Like AZ )
                                              3  You sit in traffic and lose your air flow over the motor  ( Yes I cooked a motor in traffic )
Other than that I havent had a oil cooler on my turbo  ever   ( But   I do just want one   / Earls cooler /  )
    Dave

Hi Dave-

   It all depends on whether or not you want to extend the life of your oil and engine.

   have a great one-
b

wrote:

Oil cooler would be nice  , but not needed unless
                                              1   You run the piss out of it all the time 
                                              2  You drive it  in very hot weather  all the time  ( Like AZ )
                                              3  You sit in traffic and lose your air flow over the motor  ( Yes I cooked a motor in traffic )
Other than that I havent had a oil cooler on my turbo  ever   ( But   I do just want one   / Earls cooler /  )
    Dave

   We'd like to suggest a #4 – high compression, by whatever means, makes more heat that may call for an oil cooler, especially on an air-cooled motor.

   That said, overcooling is also a consideration.  In the day there was an oil cooler thermostat (Lockhart?) to help prevent overcooling from oil coolers.

   The shop we used to haunt had a few Z-bikes pass through that had oil coolers installed, and some showed 'milk' that had clouded the oil sight glasses to the point they were no longer clear and, were barely useful if at all.  That 'milk' was water (crankcase condensation) that had been emulsified into the oil by the violent environment inthe crankcase.

   Motor oil must reach 212 deg. F. to begin to boil off condensation in the oil that occurs naturally from blowby and ordinary condensation.  Current rule of thumb is a good range for crankcase oil is in the 220 deg. F. - 250 deg. F. range  When an oil cooler is present, the motor must run much longer to achieve high enough temp for longer elapsed time to evaporate the condensation.  Too many short runs results in the increased condensate water being violently mixed (emulsified) into the oil, resulting in sight glass being obscured, sludge, as well as weak sulfuric acid being created by the emulsified water mixing with the sulfur dioxide combustion byproduct that also blows by the rings.

   The large surface area of a Z-bike motor is huge radiator.  Unless the motor is highly stressed as in Dave's examples, our opinion is they're technically unnecessary but nonetheless cool (pun intended).

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE