CAM TIMING CONUMDRUM 05 kz1000P

The book states to align the marks on the cams with the flange of the case. Then there must be 44 links from the EX on the Exhaust cam to the IN on the intake cam.

I cannot get both. I can get the marks to line up bu the count is off by 1/2 link. I can get the links right but the IN on the intake cam is close but not perfect. By putting a "dip" in the cam chain (as the top cam guild probably does it gets real close but still not like the pics in the manual.

The cam lobes look perfect by eyesight. I do not have a degree wheel but probably wouldn't help anyway.

Does both the link requirement and mark locations have to be absolutely "Perfect" or is there some allowance?

The pics show the marks and the chain. The pic with the IN closest is when the cam chain is dipped.

pic 1 IN with cam chain dipped
pic 2 IN cam chain tight
pic3 cam chain dipped
pic 4 cam chain tight
pic 5 EX on Exhaust cam with cam chain tight or dipped.

The dip in the chain is correct.
The inlet timing mark won't be aligned until the cam cover is on and the chain is pushed down by the slipper.
As long as the ex mark aligns with the head and the inlet mark is on the correct pin count you can't go wrong.
Just don't fit the tensioner and rotate the crank until the cover is on.

zed1015 wrote: The dip in the chain is correct.
The inlet timing mark won't be aligned until the cam cover is on and the chain is pushed down by the slipper.
As long as the ex mark aligns with the head and the inlet mark is on the correct pin count you can't go wrong.
Just don't fit the tensioner and rotate the crank until the cover is on.

Oh, oh...... The tensioner was on when I shimmed the valves. I had to rotate the crank to do so. I oiled everything,,, do you think I may have damaged anything. Should the tensioner be removed any time the crank is to be rotated??

The reason not to rotate the crank ( without the tensioner) is to avoid the chain jumping teeth and putting the timing out.
Having the tensioner in whilst doing the shims is ok and reduces that chance.
Just make sure the timing is still correct then fit the cover first before installing the tensioner and you will be good to go.

Align 1-4 T mark, align EX mark just slightly above the gasket surface (like shown in the photo.) then count the chain pins to the intake camshaft. Once it's all aligned install the cam chain tensioner and rotate the engine to double check your work. Adjust the valves as need be but remember to remove the cam chain tensioner cap/spring/wedge before installing the valve cover. Once the valve cover is on reinstall the cam chain tensioner parts and you are done.

Nessism wrote: Align 1-4 T mark, align EX mark just slightly above the gasket surface (like shown in the photo.) then count the chain pins to the intake camshaft. Once it's all aligned install the cam chain tensioner and rotate the engine to double check your work. Adjust the valves as need be but remember to remove the cam chain tensioner cap/spring/wedge before installing the valve cover. Once the valve cover is on reinstall the cam chain tensioner parts and you are done.

Now that makes sense. You remove the cap and parts allowing the tensioner to back off when installing the top cover and guide. That you can get off and back on when just checking shims or whatever. I misunderstood..... thinking the tensioner itself would have to be removed. necessitating the removal of those damned carbs.