Porting KZ heads

I'm starting this thread to get suggestions on porting KZ heads. Larry's FB page has lots of pics but no how to instructions. The ones on YouTube aren't KZ specific and I don't trust them. We lost a wealth of knowledge with his passing.
The porting I did on the head I am using now seems to work well but by his pics it looks like I could have gone farther. I'm getting ready to do the original head so pics and pointers would be appreciated.
Steve
www.facebook.com/pg/cavanaughracingheads...s/?ref=page_internal

Steve,
You're not building a race bike there. Just smooth out the casting flaws, paying attention to the short side radius which tends to have a sharp edge, and call it done. Hogging out material without knowledge and a flow bench can do more harm than good.

That's pretty much what I did. I'm having to download my clips to take snapshots of the ports and seat areas. I didn't think to do them at the time I recorded them. :blush: Here's a few. More to come. I'm always open to suggestions on how to make them better.
Steve

Nessism wrote: Steve,
You're not building a race bike there. Just smooth out the casting flaws, paying attention to the short side radius which tends to have a sharp edge, and call it done. Hogging out material without knowledge and a flow bench can do more harm than good.

Yeah , What ED said
Head air flow work is not for the amateur. I had a Superflow 110 flow bench in one of my spare bedrooms when I was single and it still was
a heavy learning curve for my buddy Ted. It is part experimenting , practicing , measuring , testing , and magic.
Over my pay grade other than just cleaning them up and checking for balance between all the 8 ports.
Dave

I have always sent my cylinder heads to the people do them for a living. There is more to it than just making the ports shiny and smooth!!!! Start measuring a big dollar cylinder head, and you will find out that everything is the exact in all of the four ports,. All four intake ports are within a few thousands of each other. Same with the exhaust ports. CC the chambers and they are all hold the very same amount of fluid. Same with the valve seats on the four valves.

One thing I have seen about flow benches, some people take their measurements at like .400 thousands lift. You will always get great numbers at that lift. Start taking your readings at like .040 thousands and see what you get. Yea for drag racing all you want is maximum horsepower wide open!!! Now that type of power curve won't cut it for road racing or street riding. I would rather have a cylinder head set up to have a nice wide powerband over one that comes on like a light switch!!! You can get a lot better drive out of corners with a wide spread of power. Same with street riding. Either one you don't spend all your time at wide open throttle!!!!

I read here Joe at Pit Stop Performance said just a light cleanup of the ports will give you more power and warned not to hog out too much. He also said it would be most noticeable at WOT.
I have a friend that's in to this kind of thing and he talked about going the other way by building up to improve velocity.
With input from some of our knowledgeable members maybe it could prevent newcomers from making the same mistakes.
Steve
I certainly wouldn't suggest doing what this guy did. :ohmy:

I started with this

YEP send them to people who know what they are doing ! you can do more damage than good

DFIGPZ wrote: YEP send them to people who know what they are doing ! you can do more damage than good

I would like a basic port job done on this head, and have the broken cooling fin properly welded with no evidence of repair.
Will reuse the stock valves, and only replace guides if necessary. Have valves and seats cleaned up, and achieve balanced flow across all four cylinders.



How much $hould I expect to lay out for that?

:whistle:


.

I would imagine $800 for a reputable shop.

I'd call and ask.
Steve
kzzone.com/cams.html

I think PDM fabrication said he has done head work before (forum sponsor).

A good person to ask.
Steve