Not Cranking

Testing coil method, then refer to FSM for correct values.

TexasKZ wrote: What sort of finagling makes the starter turn?

I would make finding where that smoke is coming from my first priority. You do not want a fire.
I would first remove the fuel tank and put it in a safe place that will not be harmed if the fuel leaks.
Then take a close look at the connectors in the wiring that lives under the tank. Is anything obviously dis colored or melted? One common problem is where the wiring connects to the back side of the fuse box. You may have to dismount the fuse box to see it.

Please heed this suggestion!

This is the float bowl drain screw you need to remove to confirm you have fuel in the carbs. Use a large flat blade screwdriver that fits tight into the brass screw.

DISCONNECT BATTERY, DO THIS ON A COLD ONLY MOTORCYCLE. PLACE RAGS OR TOWLES UNDER THE CARB RACK TO COLLECT FUEL. TREAT THEM AS IF THEY HAVE FUEL IN THEM. REINSTALL SCREWS AND CLEAN UP ANY SPILLED FUEL AND ALLOW TO AIR OUT BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANYMORE REPAIRS

Mikaw wrote: This is the float bowl drain screw you need to remove to confirm you have fuel in the carbs. Use a large flat blade screwdriver that fits tight into the brass screw.

DISCONNECT BATTERY, DO THIS ON A COLD ONLY MOTORCYCLE. PLACE RAGS OR TOWLES UNDER THE CARB RACK TO COLLECT FUEL. TREAT THEM AS IF THEY HAVE FUEL IN THEM. REINSTALL SCREWS AND CLEAN UP ANY SPILLED FUEL AND ALLOW TO AIR OUT BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANYMORE REPAIRS

A tight fitting screwdriver is a must. Also, you could push a length of tubing over the drain nipple and run it into a container so you don't end up with fuel all over the crankcase or with a pile of fuel soaked rags. Hollow ground screwdrivers, like Forster, are the best way to avoid wrecking the slot in the screw.

TexasKZ wrote: Also, you could push a length of tubing over the drain nipple and run it into a container so you don't end up with fuel all over the crankcase or with a pile of fuel soaked rags.

Teach me this trick oh great one. I’m tired of smelling like gas every time I want to drain the bowls.

With the VM carbs there is no way to drain the fuel from the bowl without making a mess. That nipple is the overflow tube not a drain port, it has nothing to do with drain plug. I use a small container under the bowl to catch what I can when the plug is removed.but it always makes a mess.

Thanks Baldy110, I don’t feel so archaic using my crudely fashioned container. The cutout is so it fits around the screwdriver as you loosen the drain screw.

I was pleasantly surprised when I worked on my wife's KZ550 with TK22 carbs. If you back off the drain screw slightly it allows fuel to exit the bowl through the overflow hose. There is a connection in the bottom of the bowl to enable this feature.

Your container is more elegant than mine. I use a rattle can paint lid.

baldy110 wrote: With the VM carbs there is no way to drain the fuel from the bowl without making a mess. That nipple is the overflow tube not a drain port, it has nothing to do with drain plug. I use a small container under the bowl to catch what I can when the plug is removed.but it always makes a mess.

My mistake, I was thinking of my CVKs.

If you bike is smoking from under the tank somewhere, I would be inspecting the wiring closely. The smoke combined with the no spark symptom point to electrical issues. A shot of starting fluid can normally help identify a fuel problem quick... That is if it is not already flooded. If it has spark and no fuel, it will pop on ether.

"I've already tested the fuses and those are good and carry current. What could do I need to test to see if they're getting 12v?"

This is probably the least expensive and most helpful tool you can have. He does mention getting a wiring diagram and a test light in the video. Get one, they are cool.

And if you are bored and can't get out of the house, you can make one pretty easily with a spare 12v bulb, a couple of lengths of wire and a couple of pointy things like nails. You could even use an allegator clip on the ground side and a pointy thing on the positive side if you want.
It won't tell you how much power is getting through, but for quickly finding out if the circuit is alive or dead, a test light is pretty hard to beat.


You can buy them pretty cheaply
www.z1enterprises.com/yamaha-xs650-continuity-tester.html

If you want to step up to actual measurements, you can get an inexpensive multi meter that will do the job for most of us.
www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7001524?partT...wordInput=amp+tester