TOPIC:

SWEST was correct. It was in fact the chain too loose. When installing the manual cam chain tensioner I adjusted per the instructions. After pulling the Valve Cover I saw the chain bouncing every now and then when the slack was between the sprockets turning the engine over by hand. There was better than an inch of chain play between the sprockets when slack. I adjusted this slack to approx. 1/2 inch. No more popping. I just got it running again and the chain is quiet. Now whether the adjustment I made is too tight or too loose in unknown. I could not find a post anywhere nor in the manuals. The bike runs okay,,, no whining or other sound that may indicate it's too tight. Hope this helps someone.

My KZ1000P has had what sounds like the exact same noise mystery. I've adjusted the valves and put in an APE tensioner (tensioned per APE's instructions)-- still has the top end noise. Can you describe what it is you did that solved this? From reading your post, it seems like you are saying you adjusted the AE cam chain tensioner with the valve cover off to take up some extra slack. Is that right?

If so, how did you determine how much slack to take up?

Has the bike been alright since?

Thanks-- hope to hear from you.

 

Every time you lift the valve cover you have to reset the cam chain tenioner. If not you over tighten the cam chain!. This can cause a lot the damage to all cam chain drive parts and engine, like broken chain links, fast wear of all chain guids and cam bearings, cracked valve cover. To have some slack between the sprockets after removing the valve cover is normal due to the shape of the chain guide in the valve cover.

 

Thanks. I know all this, but I was wondering what Ken19 was describing in his last post. It seems like he was saying the APE tensioner had not pulled up all the valve cover slack in the same way the stock spring-loaded tensioner would and that he manually took up a last bit of slack (not all the slack) with the valve cover off.

To me, this seems like it might make sense. My KZ1000P seems to have the exact same noise issues as his did, and I also have the APE tensioner on it.

From what I have observed, my cam chain is not coming into contact with the valve cover guide, even with the chain tightened per APE's instructions, so it might make sense that there is still a little slack in the chain, which would be responsible for the noise. The chain would be sort of rattling against the guide, rather than running smoothly along it.

So, if I am reading Ken19's post correctly, it might make sense to tension the chain just a little bit more with the valve cover off. Obviously, if you go to put the cover back on after doing this, and you encounter any resistance (i.e. the cover coming into contact with a too-tight chain), you would not bolt the cover down, and you would back the chain tension off.

Does this make sense to you all?

Also, I tried messaging Ken19, but the KZrider message system doesn't seem to work. I keep getting an error message. I also get it when I go to check my messages. Anyone else having this issue?

The PM system has been down for a while, Bill is working on it

Flatblackobsession wrote:

Thanks. I know all this, but I was wondering what Ken19 was describing in his last post.
 

Ken19 hasn't logged in since 04 December 2022. That - coupled with his limited posting history - seems to indicate that he isn't here much.

Flatblackobsession wrote:

Thanks. I know all this, but I was wondering what Ken19 was describing in his last post. It seems like he was saying the APE tensioner had not pulled up all the valve cover slack in the same way the stock spring-loaded tensioner would and that he manually took up a last bit of slack (not all the slack) with the valve cover off.

To me, this seems like it might make sense. My KZ1000P seems to have the exact same noise issues as his did, and I also have the APE tensioner on it.

From what I have observed, my cam chain is not coming into contact with the valve cover guide, even with the chain tightened per APE's instructions, so it might make sense that there is still a little slack in the chain, which would be responsible for the noise. The chain would be sort of rattling against the guide, rather than running smoothly along it.

So, if I am reading Ken19's post correctly, it might make sense to tension the chain just a little bit more with the valve cover off. Obviously, if you go to put the cover back on after doing this, and you encounter any resistance (i.e. the cover coming into contact with a too-tight chain), you would not bolt the cover down, and you would back the chain tension off.

Does this make sense to you all?

Also, I tried messaging Ken19, but the KZrider message system doesn't seem to work. I keep getting an error message. I also get it when I go to check my messages. Anyone else having this issue?

Then your cam chain guide in the valve cover is worn out!!!
If not you can try to push down the chain between the sprokets to get the right slack (Do not turn or move the crank/cam or your slack is catch up by the tensioner.
Under some circumstance the valve spring tention to the cam lobe can turn the cams by some degrees and your slack is also gone!
Why did you thing Kawasaki construct and made the bow shaped guide!!!
Yes right, to guide and shape lock the chain tention between the cam sprocket, so the chain can´t swing/ vibrate up and down and make a rattling noise!!!

 

Edit: Add some more text.

Scirocco wrote:

Every time you lift the valve cover you have to reset the cam chain tenioner. If not you over tighten the cam chain!. This can cause a lot the damage to all cam chain drive parts and engine, like broken chain links, fast wear of all chain guids and cam bearings, cracked valve cover. To have some slack between the sprockets after removing the valve cover is normal due to the shape of the chain guide in the valve cover.

 

With my APE manual cam chain tensioner, it is not necessary to loosen the chain adjustment at all before removing the cam cover for cam-lash service.  If the cams haven't been removed the cover snugs back down with no issue whatsoever.

You are right daveo but the non APE cam chain owner should know this!

Scirocco wrote:

You are right daveo but the non APE cam chain owner should know this!
 

Abosolutlee 100% fo sho...yessir! 

Hey, what's up with all those non-US engine covers in your picture???  I know, you're just a cam cover hoarder.

Thanks very much. I have an idea for something I'm going to try with the APE tensioner. I'm going to take the valve cover off, tighten the tensioner to remove some of the slack, then start easing the cover back on. When I feel the guide come in to contact with the chain, I will back the tensioner off, and finish tightening down the cover. Then, with the cover on, I will tighten any remaining slack per APE's instructions.

This way, I will know that the guide and the chain are in contact and there is no excess slack in that valley between the cams.

What do you think?

Also, does any one have a good valve cover cam chain guide they'd be willing to part with? I'd be interested in swapping mine out, in case the one I currently have in there is worn out.

daveo wrote:

Hey, what's up with all those non-US engine covers in your picture???  I know, you're just a cam cover hoarder.

All of them sold to US KZR members. They are now very difficult to find here in Germany for a reasonably priced used spare part.