TOPIC:

Morning All,

So over a month ago I added some sea-foam into the gas tank, You can definitely say I add way too much sea foam into the gas. I also top off my oil level too. Then went for a ride and I was not able to go over 50 mile per hour. So I realize that I probably put way too much sea foam. Drain the gas tank and filled it back up with new 93 octane gas. Went for a ride, same thing.

Prior to this the bike was able to go over 80 mph. However, whenever I did wide open throttle at high speed around 90 mph the engine screamed but didn't accelerate. Pretty much it just jumped to red line. Usually I don't always ride like that so I left that alone.

Back to the bike not accelerating over 60 mph. Then I removed the carbs and cleaned them. Maybe the seam foam might of dissolved some bigger pieces of rust in the gas tank and then clogged the jets. Cleaned the carbs not once but twice. Same thing, Ran fine until the engine warmed up. Pulled really nicely at lower rpms.. But couldn't go over 60 mph when the bike warmed up.

Maybe the valve clearances were causing this issue, right? By the way all the intake and exhaust valves were out of specs lol. After setting all the tolerances back to normal. The bike pulled very hard at lower rpms. When the engine warmed up it seemed to slip more around 4- 5k rpms and slip big time anything around 6K+ rpms.

Literally, Everything is telling me its the clutch plates going bad. Removed the clutch plates and they looked fine. I have another kz550 parts bike in the garage with 15k miles on the engine. Took those plates and springs and installed them on my daily rider. The same thing happens. When I had my parts bike running the engine pulled nicely throughout the entire rpm range. Maybe those plates are also bad. So I placed a order for new clutch plates from BikeBandit.com, Barnett Kevlar Friction Plate Kit. It run way better, I was able to go 70mph plus. However, after 15 minutes of running it begins to slip.

Link:https://www.bikebandit.com/aftermarket-parts/transmission/clutch-parts/barnett-kevlar-friction-plate-kit/p/16778?b=191517

I did some more research about this and read about that the oil might be causing this problem. The next day I replace the oil filter and change the oil to 15W-40 rotella oil. Before I was running mobil one 10W-40 Racing 4T Full Synthetic Motor Oil.

Last night I went for a 40 minute ride. The first 5 minute the bike ran fine. Next 10 minutes I noticed the clutch begins to slip at higher rpms 6k plus. At the 20 minute mark I was still able to go 65 mph. And after that it just went down hill from that. Struggled going 60 another ten minutes goes by it begins to struggle going 50 mph. What I mean by struggle is I can't accelerate passed those speeds. I can only hold the throttle there and ride at 60 or 50 mph. If I try to accelerate passed those speeds the motor just begins to rise in rpms but I go nowhere.

I am completely lost now. Could it be the oil that I am using or bad clutch springs. improper adjustment of the clutch ? BTW a new clutch cable was installed way prior to this issue.

I also ran a compression test, I forgot the results exactly, but it seemed normal. I believe it was all round 140-155 psi for all cylinders.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

--Yuriy--

Obvious first question relates to clutch adjustment. Do you have free play at the clutch lever to start? Next, do you have free play down at the clutch lever, at the actuator on the engine?

Have you carefully adjusted the clutch cable, following the factory method exactly? Did you install new springs with the new clutch plates?

clutch seemed to engage perfectly fine. When I got my chain replaced I also had my clutch cable installed at the shop. So I didn't touch the cable. The free play at the lever is a little to much for me, but the clutch engages with the engine fine. I can start messing with that when I get home today.

The spring aren't new but came off my parts bike. I am also thinking its the clutch springs. I am going to try adjusting the clutch cable.

Your_Boy_Yuriy wrote: clutch seemed to engage perfectly fine. When I got my chain replaced I also had my clutch cable installed at the shop. So I didn't touch the cable. The free play at the lever is a little to much for me, but the clutch engages with the engine fine. I can start messing with that when I get home today.

The spring aren't new but came off my parts bike. I am also thinking its the clutch springs. I am going to try adjusting the clutch cable.

The problem is quite simple. Rather than learning how to maintain your bike you depend on a "shop" to perform simple maintenance tasks on you bike. That is a great mistake. You need to learn how to maintain your bike or you will continue to be plagued with problems that you could easily avoid if you take a little time to learn about your bike. I'm not trying to be a hard ass, but I seriously doubt that there are others on this website who would take their bike to a shop to have the drive chain or a cable replaced. Are you aware that the drive chain will need periodic adjustment? Do you plan to have a shop perform that task on a regular basis?

Do yourself a huge favor and buy a Kawasaki Service Manual for you bike's specific year and model. Read the manual paying special attention to the periodic maintenance items. The manual will guide you through how to perform those tasks. If you rely on others to perform normal maintenance tasks you will always be frustrated with your bike. Ed

Hey 650ed,

I usually do all the maintenance myself. However at that time I didn't feel comfortable doing the chain myself. Plus I didn't want to buy a cheap chain riveting tool. Since the shop has to removed the side cover, I'm like what the hell since you are going to be down there might as well replace the cable. Rode 4000-5000 miles since then.

I also have Kawasaki Service Manuals for both my bike KZ550 and KZ750

--Yuriy--

s3.amazonaws.com/gpzweb/ClutchReleaseMech.GIF

Some manuals have the adjustment procedure wrong. You need to know what type of actuator you have. If you have the 3-ball and pocket type, then use that link above.

That is the most common 550 actuator, but the earliest bikes came with a different type that has a different adjustment method.

Also, too much oil can cause it to slip a lot. Reduce the oil to correct levels and give it time to get the oil off of the clutch plates.

People experience this usually after an oil change.

It worked, the clutch cable just needed to be adjusted the whole time. Now it rides like a new bike.

Thanks for the help guys.

New cable might have stretched ? Good to hear to fixed it..

YEEEEEEHAAAAAAAWWW!!!