TOPIC:

I just bought a 1980 kz750 ltd and quickly realized that the starter clutch needed rebuilt. After watching a couple of youtube video series and ordering the Clymer maintenance manual I felt comfortable tearing this apart myself. Unfortunately, I am stuck at the clutch basket as I am unable to remove the 30mm nut that holds it on. I've tried just about everything I can think of, starting with using bungee cords to hold the basket still while I wrenched on it, then buying an impact, then attempting to use heat in conjunction with the impact and bungees. I finally broke down and bought a clutch basket holder because I worried the bungee cords were not only holding my clutch still, but having some sort of "numbing" effect on my impact. As of about half an hour ago, this nut still will not budge.\

I worried this could've been a LH thread nut, and none of my resources ever said "this is a RH nut" so I've tried both directions with similar results. Long story short, I'm stuck with a bike that runs great, but won't start... Any help or advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

On mine it's a R/H thread. I have the tool against the foot pegs. Looks like it can slip off the swing arm pivot bolt. Best to use a 1/2" ratchet and a cheater bar or torque wrench. Impacts can be dangerous.
Steve

Right hand thread, anti clockwise to undo. Get the basket tool as close to the basket base plate with the handle against something strong. 30mm socket (0n mine 650) then get a 4ft scoffold tube on the ratchet for leverage. They are torqued tight! About 130kn.
Either that or a rattle gun.

You are going to need something like an Ingersoll-Rand 1/2 inch air impact gun to break that clutch nut loose. Especially if the previous owner used tons of Red Loctite on the nut like most people do if they ever had that nut come loose!!!!

1/4 inch drive impact gun just ain't going to cut it. Neither will an electric impact gun get that nut loose. Don't think any impact gun from Harbor Freight will either.

Of the impact guns I own, the only one that works on my clutch and counter sprocket nuts is my killer 1/2 inch Ingersoll-Rand. I also let my compressor build up to max pressure then I will hit that nut!!!!

Or roll you bike down to your local repair shop, and I bet you for a six pack they will remove that nut for you!!!!

The nut on mine has never been off. It was tight as hell but with my Craftsman torque wrench I got it loose. I retorqued it to spec but now you say I should've used red Lock Tight?
Steve

The shop manual (The Bible to some) does not say anything about using Loctite on the clutch nut I believe. Over the years I have seen many clutch nuts that backed off. I have seen it on bikes people just cruised around on, and on bikes that people beat on all the time!!!! I have used Loctite on clutch nuts since back in my H2 750 days.

I have never used a torque wrench on any of my clutch nuts and especially on the counter sprocket nuts. I just hit them with the impact gun. I don't sit there with the impact gun banging on the nut for any length of time. I turn the setting down and just hit it once or twice with the impact gun. Upon my teardowns, I have never seen any damage from those nuts being over tighten either. I have never had either a clutch nut come loose, or lost a counter sprocket nut on any of my bikes!!!!!

Neither the KZ1000 manual (1st image below) or the KZ650 manual (2nd image below) specify using a locking agent, but they both give a fairly hefty torque spec. I imagine that some folks do not torque the nut tight enough and it loosens up. Ed

Be sure to use a new nut (after you get it) .... it has a locking tab built in and is made for one time use. I Used a shot of blue loctite too and went just under a hundred ft lbs.

I checked my parts collection of Kz900/1000 clutch parts, and guess what I found out!!!!!

Kawasaki must have had a problem with the clutch nuts coming loose on the Kz900/1000 motors, and might have been under warranty too!!! Kawasaki changed the part number for the original nut style of 92019-015 to 92015-1555 which is a totally different style of locking nut!!!! Kawasaki would not have changed the style of nut unless there was some type of problem they tried to fix by changing to the new style nut. The silver nut on the left is the old style clutch nut. The gold nut on the right is the new style nut that Kawasaki now uses on all of the early Kz900/1000's. I don't know the name of the new style locking nut, but it does have more grip to lock onto the input shaft!!! I don't care what the shop manual reads, I would still use some Loctite on both style of locking nuts just to be safe. If the shop manual told you to rub some feces onto your clutch nut, would you do it????? I like to think for myself personally!!! I have always used a shop manual as a guide not something set in stone!!!

Old and new style of clutch nuts.


Close up look at the new style of clutch nut.

I have the one on the left as well as all my spares. I've reused them many times on different bikes. None have come loose that I know of. When I tore down the motor in 17 the nut was tight as hell and it was when I replaced the clutch plates. I want a push rod roller kit so when I get back into the clutch I'll use a little lock tight just to be safe.
Steve
www.z1enterprises.com/roller-clutch-push-rod-kit.html

Never used a locking agent but like the Dr. I spin them on with my rattle gun but then I also stake em. I also use the rattle gun 1/2" to remove them, never had one not come off they spin off really easy with the right tool.