Starter(warm engine)

When my engine is cold the start engine spinn around and can turn the engine around and around...until I release the button..

When the engine is warm starter are able to start the engine, but it sound like it is close to not achieve it...
It`s not strong enough to spinn the engine around and around.....

I understand it`s because the compression is higher when the engine is warm.

But is these a signal that the starter soon will not be strong enough to start the engine...?

The battery was new last year, but it`s not a expensive one. What I can do when the engine is warm connect a car battery to the bike and start the engine...

If you do connect the bike to a car battery to start the bike do NOT have the car engine running. Doing that can damage the bike's electrical system. Ed

650ed wrote: If you do connect the bike to a car battery to start the bike do NOT have the car engine running. Doing that can damage the bike's electrical system. Ed

With all due respect Ed, The only way that a running car can damage the electrical system on a bike would be if the cables were hooked up backwards or the car's charging system were putting out wayyy more than 13.5 VDC.

Cars should charge at approximately the same levels that the Kawasaki charging systems use. ~13.5 VDC nominal with a charged / known good battery and a properly functioning charging system.

That said, a fully charged car battery alone should have enough of a kick, to fire off almost any bike known to man without the car running. It almost sounds like Gordone is experiencing the >more is better< "improvement" blues, or his bike is not starting like it should. My bike pops off within a blip of the starter button. Especially so when it is warm.

Perhaps the starter could use a little TLC?

You would be horrified by the carnage in a worn out starter. If done early enough it can be cleaned up and rebuilt with a kit made for the exact year and model.
Steve

It depends on the charging system type of the KZ. Most Kz's use a shunting regulator.

Many modern cars charge much higher than 13.5v on initial start. For a short time they can easily stay at 14 or even 15v depending on outdoor temperature and initial current on the battery. During that time, if the bike is running, it will have to shunt 100% of the stator output for however long the car power is applied until the car's output falls below the Kz's threshold. That's a lot of power for the regulator and stator to dissipate.

And like you said, the Kz shouldn't need the car to be running, so best advice is to not have it running when jump starting.

Now on an excited field system, like the 1977 Kz650, the regulator would just shut down the field coil, and there would be no stator output, so there should be no power issue. But this only applies to a few Kz models and years.

SWest wrote: You would be horrified by the carnage in a worn out starter. If done early enough it can be cleaned up and rebuilt with a kit made for the exact year and model.
Steve

That's a fact Jack! Er.. Steve! LOL

As a matter of fact, I ordered in the 4 brush "kit" for my bike, then took it apart to find it is a 2 brush starter with field coils rather than permanent magnets. I only cleaned mine up, then reassembled it. As you can tell, it cleaned up well.


The carbon dust from the brushes goes everywhere and makes it appear to be baked hard:

Is it a good start take out the starter and clean it? Or is the best to replace parts with a kit?

What is TLC?

Well, in my all ideal world I charge my bike battery with a battery charger, that drops to zero output when the battery is charged. If I ever jump start anything, I remove the jumper cables after it starts. It isn't meant to be left hooked up for extended periods. Under normal conditions, the bike would not be running , charging, or shunting. A running and charging bike does not need a "jump", but I do see your point.

Of course, it can be said that nothing on the internet is done in ideal conditions, so perhaps the warning may be necessary for some. I have trouble riding my bike with a car hooked to the battery. :whistle:

gordone wrote: Is it a good start take out the starter and clean it? Or is the best to replace parts with a kit?

What is TLC?

TLC means "tender loving care" my friend.

I bought the wrong kit off of fleabay. The kit steve posted is the one I needed. I guessed what my kit was, (4 brush) and guessed wrong. It was listed for the right application , but was not the right kit. I didn't need it anyway.

We are just trying head off trouble at the pass. Who knows if someone might leave their bike running while connected to a running car for a half hour. Stranger things have been done. Most catastrophic charging and ignition systems failures have been "helped" by the owner.

loudhvx wrote: We are just trying head off trouble at the pass. Who knows if someone might leave their bike running while connected to a running car for a half hour. Stranger things have been done. Most catastrophic charging and ignition systems failures have been "helped" by the owner.

We agree that a LOT of problems are self-induced. AKA " shooting one's self in the foot". We would venture to say that the bulk of the so called "improvements" are self induced problems, because those Japanese engineers had no idea what they were doing! <sarcasm>

MORE is always better, and if it started with jumper cables, leaving them hooked up for 3 hours will compensate for that worn out starter or bad battery, or already fried charging system even more. We always want MORE!

We want MORE Broham! :woohoo:

I will take out the starter and take some photos to identify what kit I need.