TOPIC:

Its difficult to tell from the pics but is there any chance it could be leaking from your tacho drive and running down then getting spread by the air flow around the motor?
Tacho drive leak is an easy fix and the first thing I would check as it is common.

Maybe degreass and clean the block and then loon for where the leak start?

gordone wrote:
Maybe degreass and clean the block and then loon for where the leak start?

I remember a posting about an oil leak search on a dry cleaned engine with with Baby powder.



full Video here

www13.zippyshare.com/v/GnpDTxBe/file.html

Happy searching

Hello guys this is the update .
I have recently changed the tach Ring and the seal so its not leaking from there I tightened very well the tach.
I did did tightened again at 33 pounds of torque every head nut and cleaned the whole engine with degreaser washed and dry with blown air until completely clean and dry, then fired the engine and straight after 5 minutes noticed that the leak is coming between the cylinder and the head in the from of where the camshaft sprocket is, I even noticed a bible coming from there so def is from there.
I guess must be the Funny shape Oring that goes between the cylinder and the head in the center where the cam chain is located and the oil return from the head.
I don't know if it could be possible that the engine due to the big bore and the amount of heat that generates could have bend the head.
So I guess at this point I am opening the engine, removing the head and measure the cylinder diameter and the current gasket thickness for correct replacement.
Should I have the head checked for straightness to make sure is not bended and need sweeping. with I guess that will change the whole ball game with the gasket thicknes.
I have to do a valve adjustment anyways with the under bucket shims.
anyways I am really great full that you guys help and your opinions are very important.

Thanks for the reply remmember is an oversized block so OEm won't fit.I have OEM gaskets at home for an standard bore engine I have and also have wise gaskets for kz and j model 1200 cc engines with I also have one of each but this one I never opened before but I am pretty sure is over 1400cc by the size of the block so I don't think hem will work there.
but will see how it goes when I open the engine.
thanks

When you pull the head you may loosen or upset the cylinder as it sits on the casings. This is not uncommon to happen and this is why many members pull the block and replace the base gasket at this time .
I would check the head and block for being flat with a good stright edge , but chances are they are ok ( Lets hope )
I hope you have a factory manual as you will need one .
All the guessing will be over once you tear the motor down. You may find a one piece head gasket or maybe a 2 piece with a center o ring .
I use yamabond as needed to seal up my motor during a rebuild by oil passages
Dave

Street Fighter LTD wrote: When you pull the head you may loosen or upset the cylinder as it sits on the casings. This is not uncommon to happen and this is why many members pull the block and replace the base gasket at this time .
I would check the head and block for being flat with a good stright edge , but chances are they are ok ( Lets hope )
I hope you have a factory manual as you will need one .
All the guessing will be over once you tear the motor down. You may find a one piece head gasket or maybe a 2 piece with a center o ring .
I use yamabond as needed to seal up my motor during a rebuild by oil passages
Dave

I agree, it's almost impossible to remove the head and clean things up without pulling the block. Just plan on it period. Pressure wash / strip / repaint makes it all look presentable and goes together neat / clean.

I haven't fixed mine yet because of my cramped shed, and freezing record low temps in the last few months. I shut off my outdoor faucet when it hits ~25F here. I turned it back on Sunday., so the time is near.

I bought some Hondabond HT a while back. Does anyone have any experience with this stuff? Is it good at gluing a J motor into a oil-tight state? My Base gasket was sooooo stuck (assume glued) that there is STILL base gasket residue on the cases after using stripper and pressure washer numerous times. I replaced this gasket with a new OEM gasket installed dry with no sealant whatsoever. Surprisingly this gasket has no leaks after a full assembly, and tear down to fix the overlapped oil expander ring.

Hello
I just opened the engine and pull the head out. came out fairly easy once I removed all the cam and the head nut used a piece of wood and taped sideways the head and pulled out nicely. button between the cylinders and head was very messy.
it has a copper head gasket seem like the wiseco style, no Ring in the cam chain oil pasage and I don't know if it is suppose to be like that.
The Cylinder bore is apron 82 mm with translate if I am not wrong to 1395. Low compression piston I guess 10.5 to one if I am not wrong. the cylinders show no sea nand the pistons are tight. I was not expecting anything different.
I am going to be taking measurement and notes in regarding of the thickness of the gasket and diameter of the installed gaskets as well.
I also already measured the gap in valves so I can now measure lobe the camshafts and the printing not them to see if it can be figured out the right shim clearance.
I have not pilled the cylinders out yet since I have to remove the glue I did put bellow the cylinder jugs where it cracked when they did the case boring.
I am uploading the pics while I keep working so if you do suggestions I can follow while I am working on this.
Thanks

Number 1 I fixed your pictures so we can see them. PLEASE hit the insert button before hitting submit so your pictures can be seen properly

Next That copper head gasket can be reused. Dont bend it up ,, keep it flat as possible. Clean it with scotch brite and then anneal it in a oven and quench it in water. . Then reclean it
and reuse it. Next clean all surfaces. During reassemble the o ring at the cam tunnel shoould be filled with Yamabond and allowed to set up before putting head and gasket back on . Use yamabond at all 4 outside cylinder studs to seal oil galleries . Be careful not to use to much and clog the oil flow. .
If I were you I would e mail and look up Joe Hooper at Pitstop performance in Florida. He has a complete set of needed steps published that are a step by step
guide to proper motor services. My words above are just a partial list of needed things to do to seal up that big motor.
Dave

Here is a link to Joes top end assembly guide. Check it out and the rest of his site
www.pitstopperformance.com/top-end-assembly/
Dave

Be sure the head and barrels are flat. Looks like they're not.
Steve

Took another look at your pictures. Funny I didnt look closer before.
With those huge sleeves you cant run a center o ring as the over bore removes the groove at the cam chain tunnel .
Not sure if groove was welded up or contains RTV. Also the motor has stock studs in it . I would use APE heavy duty studs and nuts
Poor choice to go to 1400 cc in street motor in stock block
Not for the weak at heart, More to follow.................
Dave