valve adjustment

I've been vintage racing a "78 Rickman frame Kawasaki with a 1075 kit. All the valve clearances are within tolerance except the #1 cylinder intake. measures .006 . I have the special tool but the shim needs more clearance to come out. Can I slide a shim under the cam to gain enough clearance before I hold down the valve. The clearance should decrease with valve wear. The cam profile miked within spec. I wondered why the clearance increased. Possibly it was over when the engine was built. The engine runs great and pulls well. At Mosport in August I did Friday practice,endurance race with a buddy and 2 sprint races.Roughly 125 racing miles and this is the first time since 2009 that I've looked at the valve clearances. Lots of racing miles and still starts on the second kick. Regular maintainance,forks,oil, suspension. Not sure how to get the shim out. Thought about loosening the cap bolts but wasn't sure if that was a good idea.
Jerry

Is the measurement (0.006) inches or mm?

Maybe try the zip tie under the valve trick?
members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/i...lve_tool_zip_tie.pdf

.006" - .152mm

If the engine is a KZ1000 ,the spec is right at the upper limit. You should have plenty of room to pull the shim. Do you have the Kawasaki tool or the Motion Pro one? I use the Kawasaki one.

Yes, need a little more clarification. As to which tool you are using. OEM tool is the best. 40 yrs. and going on mine. The tip is actually wore a little.
Are you sure shim, it is not just oil stuck to the bucket top?
Patience! It will come out. Never force or barn job anything.
I just sold this head, bench shimmed all to .004" All stock stuff.

and if they are after market cams .006 in is on the money.

Glad I didn't chime in. I thought .006 was a little fat. :whistle:
Steve

If you are using the Kawasaki tool it should work fine.

Step 1 -Rotate the cam using a wrench on the big bolt on the timing side (right side) so that the narrow part of the lobe faces away from the shim either upwards or towards the center of the head and that the bucket and shim move freely.

Step 2 - Using your fingers (or whatever other tool just as long as you do not damage anything) rotate the shim bucket so that the notch is aligned the center of the head or the other cam. This will give you access to the pry area when its time to lift the shim.

Step 3 - Depress the valve completely, the narrow lobe of the cam should be 90 degrees in relation to the shim surface.

Step 4 - Install the tool. It should be centered to the cam lobe.

Step 5 - Rotate the cam inversely, away from the tool (DO NOT ALLOW THE LOBE TO CONTACT THE TOOL YOU MIGHT DAMAGE SOMETHING) so that the tool is now holding the bucket down and that cam lobe is facing upward or towards the center of the head or the other camshaft.

Step 6 - Remove the shim. I use a small exacto knife with a narrow blade which I use to stick between the bucket and the shim, you need to give it a little twist sometimes to beat the suction created by oil between the 2 surfaces.

Step 7 - Change the shim

Thanks for the help. had the wrong tool. Just ordered shims.
Jerry