Help with KZ750 engine Freaking out.

I’m freaking out a bit here. After putting everything together and getting things ready. I’m freaking out thinking the I may have messed up on something. For one I never used any plastigauge to measure clearances. Two, I’m freaking out wondering if I put the crank rods in the wrong order or orientation. 3 I’m freaking out if I put my piston rings in the right way up.

So my first question is, Is it really that bad that I didn’t use plastigauge? The bike last read 14,xxx miles.

Second, is there an orientation or direction that the crank rods go? All I’m pretty darn sure of is that I put the oil intakes on the rod towards the back of the engine. As far as everything else I’m not positive. I looked in the manual and I didn’t see anything else about placement or order.

I’m pretty sure I put the rings in with the letter “N” up. Cuz that just makes sense.

So this is why I’m freaking out about startup.



I’m sure I’ll get some silly answers. But I would appreciate all the advise possible.

I let talk the pictures.
My English skills are over strained








Michael

When in doubt, open manual.:S

So I have a 1982 KZ750N Spectre. I have the manual but and this isn’t the same.

I’m a bit worried about if I put on the crank end cap on in the right orientation. I would think I did but I’m not positive.

I would think that there is only one way it could go on.

I guess I’ll have to wait until start up and break in to see what happens. Unless y’all think otherwise. I have most the electrical set up except the ignition. So i can get the engine to turn over and all sounds good. Just a bit apprehensive about doing it. And hopefully any malfunctions will present themselves on start up and break in. Because I’m sure all of us know how hard it is to remove the engine from frame and tear it down to the crank.


Thanks on the input. The whole ring issue is okay cuz i now i put the “N” up and clocked them.

Thanks!

The rods a machined symmetrical for balance reasons so i don´t worried about it.
It is only a cosmetic imperfectness of signs orientation.
More important is to match the marked upper/lower rod shells as they machined together.

Michael

Okay. As far as I can remember is that I keeped the rod shells together. And I’m 95% sure put the that the journals were put in the same top and bottom. But I’m not positive if I put the rod end cap on the right way. I think I put the little nick in the journal opposite the other.

As for the crank shaft journals, those all got mixed up in cleaning. Idk if that affects anything but we’ll see.

I made the mistake of using a drunk to wash my parts while rebuilding a Pontiac 326 engine. I told him to keep the rods together as sets. He gave them to me mixed together. I fired him of course but the parts weren't marked from the factory. Using the grind marks to match them I thought I had them right. I put it together and installed the engine. I fired it up, it sounded great. After revving it a while it slowly slowed down to a stop. THE CRANK WAS FROZEN. 1967 Pontiac Le Mans I let it sit for a few years then gave it away.
The reason I'm telling you this is, if in doubt, open her back up. You'll be glad you did.
Steve

Ug your killing me. If I do tear it down, what would I be looking for? How do I know if I put them on wrong? So I would think, if it had marks, I would have seen it and matched them up. If it didn’t I made the little nick in the journals opposing each other. So I’m good there. Now I’m thinking I may not need to tear it down.

Also isn’t a Pontiac engine built differently than a kz750? I could be wrong and just delaying the inevitable. But all the above makes sense to me.

They're the same as far as the bearing types are concerned. If I had a Plastigauge I would have been able to see if they were too tight. I put in new standard bearings the same that were in it. If the gauge showed too much clearance and too little, I could have switched them and so on. What I wound up with was buying a new set of bearings and possably a crank. Would have been worth it in the long run. :whistle:
Steve

Oh okay. Well I’m going to trust my instincts. Hopefully that’s not too ignorant. But like I said above, if there were marks I would have matched them up. And if not the notch in the bearing journals are opposite each other the same side.

I’ll shoot a text here if something fails.

I guess I could remove the oil pan to see the bottom of the crank. That way I can check the crank. Also I won’t have to tear down the entire engine.

Thanks!

So I removed the oil pan and with a small mirror, I was able to see that the little letter “K” stamped on the 2 and 3 rods are on perfect. I’ll try and get a picture of the stamp later. Doesn’t even look like I tore it down. As for the caps, the numbers on the bottom all are right side up except one cap. The letter “K” is stamped on it perfectly. So I guess I assume it’s a manufactured flaw. The one cap being backwards.