Loose KERKER baffle?

Hey,

Got engine to frame. Mounted Kerker header to determine O2 sensor location. Had the bung welded. Next step is dealing with the loose baffle issue.

I have the 2" baffle. Only 2 things secure it in the can. The wide flange which gets tight pushing it into the can taper, and the other end of the baffle that fits into the cone at the outlet. When assembling I put the cone on the back end of the baffle the push the whole thing into the can. It gets tight at the tapered end of the can (maybe have to tap it in a little bit) then install the screw that holds the cone.

All is great until a couple thousand miles, after hot/cold, expansion/ contraction, the baffle sinks deeper into the can tapper. So it's no longer tight against the cone. Loose and rattling away in the can.

I called Super Trapp support and they were in the dark. Anybody run into a similar problem? I have a new baffle and know it's gonna loosen up like the other unless I do something extra to secure it.

Have your some pics to show your problem???

Can, baffle, cone and cone screw. The only thing keeping the baffle tight is the cone pushing it tight into the narrow end of the can. I lose this with expansion/contraction. I hear all kinds of stories about not being able to get a rusted baffle out, but not much about one getting loose and rattling around.

If I put it together right now the cone has no pressure on the baffle, but it did when new. I could weld the baffle to the cone, but the big end of the baffle would still be loose and rattling in the can.

The original baffle is much longer ond does a bend further into the can, and it's probably more secure. I guess they didn't put much thought into this straight, half the length, 2" performance baffle.

Try to renew the silencing insulating wool ,(sorry if i am misnamed something).
I prefer fine steel wool for the inner, fiber wool for the outer layer.
Fix the winding with a thin steel wire.
Made a press fit/tight combo, no rattling any more.

I guess that's a possibility, but technically the packing shouldn't be securing the baffle in the can.

Try to spread/widening the baffle cone with light hammer tabs to get a tight fit in the can pipe.

I wears a groove in the pipe. I deform the inside baffle plate slightly to make it tight again. Had to do it with my V/H.
Steve

The Kerker competition baffles are one piece. They are welded together to make them one piece. They have been that way since back in the 70's.

Looks like you need a new baffle. That one has seen its better days!!!!

They ain't cheap anymore either!!!!!!

I think the OP picture is considered a Street Baffle, while the one Dr Gamma has pictured is the “Competition Only” baffle.

I'm using the 2" performance baffle. I have a new one to replace, and still have the much longer original baffle. None have the baffle welded to the cone. Remember this is the re-designed SuperTrapp KERKER. Not the same as the original . I can change the oil and filter without removing the exhaust.

SWest wrote: I wears a groove in the pipe. I deform the inside baffle plate slightly to make it tight again. Had to do it with my V/H.
Steve

Think I'm gonna go with your method Steve. Spread out the end of the baffle so it fits tighter in the can, and maybe use some high-temp RTV where it fits into the cone.