I think I really f#@&Ed up

Not enough. They say overfill the groove let it cure then cut flush with a razor blade. Using the copper RTV I've been filling it and put it together wet. This time I'll try it their way.
Steve

so can it be all over the matting surface or does it have to be perfect and only in that groove?. can i let it dry in layers and ad more? this seems like a giant @#@$($% joke to have to do this. does wiesco have anything in print some where besides the bullshit that they send with the gasket? Steve how did it go when you put yours together wet did it leak? i used black rtv thats rated for high temp .

It seeps after a while. That's why I'm going to try it their way. Silicon doesn't stick to itself. Best to pull the old stuff out and start over. It's mainly to fill the void and let the gasket seal. I use copper spray unless the gasket is new. I will do a light coating just around the cam chain tunnel on both sides if new.
Steve

One of the local KZ guys also known as the KZ god of my area said that he never fills the void of the o-ring he just coats MLS gasket with gascasinch then assembles it. the man suggesting this has been building kz's for years and owns his own shop he has been doing it that way since the 90s. what do you guys think?

i got the head sealed up no leaks so far after 50 miles. i am worried that the base gasket on the cylinders is leaking. the gasket is wet where the block meets the top half of the cases all the way around the where it protrudes from the cases. is there anything i can do to fix this other that taking the entire engine apart?

I spoke with Wiseco and they say install dry on all head gaskets.

Did you use an OEM base gasket? The sealant coating makes all the difference. But as always both gasket surfaces must be clean.

I used the base gasket that the wiesco 1075 kit comes with. I did not use any sealer at the time of install just the stock o-rings and the base gasket. It is not leaking at all at the moment. Everything is going pretty well with the bike now that i have it set up good and proper just need to drop the main jet a size or two. It runs out hard with no issues its just not perfect. This morning i felt some raw fuel come out of the exhaust and hit the back of my leg it has to be too fat. The plugs look pretty good but its hard to get a solid plug reading living in my neighborhood and no dyno around.

Head gasket sealing! BLUE HYLOMAR! Don't know if this new brand is same as original that permatex used to sell? But back in the 90's When the Great Late Legend "Elmer Trett" used to rule the Top Fuel Nitro bikes. "Puppet" Racevisions built chassis. Fastest bike in the world at the time!
Elmer said HYLOMAR was the only stuff that would seal his head. I used to get it in spray cans. I might have to try it soon.
Spread it out with a charge card type spreader.
www.amazon.com/Hylomar-Universal-Blue-Ga...300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

put some strong cylinder studs in it so you can tighten them.

Hylomar is the best stuff out there. My next door neighbor built an airplane in his garage and used hylomar on all the engine seals. I figured if it was good enough for the FAA it was good enough for Z1’s. I use it on all seals, o rings and gaskets. Except the head gasket, that goes on dry. Use the “Advanced Formula”. The regular hylomar has a solvent carrier that must evaporate before assembly. AF does not and can be assembled right away. Good luck.

I know of a product called gascasinch it is pretty high quality stuff. thanks for input its always good to have knowledge. I am about to buy a modded out turbo drag bike so i am going to need a lot of help figuring it out.