Pistons/Valves/Bore/Advance Timer Condition Analysis Help

I've finally committed to working on this bike! (1982 kz1000k ltd)
There were numerous leaks from the header.. some starting issues that couldn't be narrowed down to either electrical/carb/compression/etc.
Lots of little things that add up.
When i went to pull the header off the cylinder today, it took the cylinder with it. I had to hammer a knife into the gasket to separate them.


Short backstory: I bought this from a friend before he moved across the country and it died before I could test drive it..new battery got it to my garage and it hasn't started since. I know basically nothing about it except that it has had 2 owners across 14,000 miles.
I spent an honest 12 hours yesterday reading through dozens of threads and the service manual and watching OEM training videos, and felt confident in my understanding of the cam, valves, and cylinder block.

HOWEVER, knowing how they go together does not equal knowing whether they are shot or now. my personal assessment of the following pictures is that they are in rough condition, but salvageable with various part replacements (rings, valves, shims, gaskets). the header is at a machine shop getting a stuck exhaust stud milled out, but when i peeked into it, a couple valves look atrocious...white dust et. al.

If you and your braintrust could do me a big solid and offer some guidance on what i am looking at as far as replacement parts (rings/shims/gaskets [obviously])vs. just needing a deep cleaning (valves/pistons/advanced timer), i would be eternally grateful.

cheers

here's the advanced timer on the crank:


pistons & studs


3&4


1&2

#3's edges w. gunk buildup


#4's bore. no discernible ridge, but there is a rusty discoloration. this exists in the others to a lesser degree, mostly similar to a smudge rather than a rusty patch.


valves..my uncle said the white is from water leaking in?


piston summary. #1 is at the bottom of the frame, #4 the top



OTHER CONCERNS:
this start motor gear...does it need anything pining it in? that little center bolt slides out and takes the two gears with it. i assume the cover holds it in place?


is there any way to remove this metal strap? i'm going to be repainting it and would like a smooth-sided tank.

addendum: have no fear, i had already pulled the rings in the picture titled "#3's edges w. gunk buildup"

also, i'm a noob to engine maintenance, so please school me as aggressively as you can. please and thank you

also also, how can i efficiently clean this mess without getting gunk into the case!? i would love to just spray the hell out of the engine with carb/brake cleaner/acetone, but don't want to a) get the gunk into the case & oil distribution system, and b) ruin any internal o-rings in the case & transmission.

14000 k miles is nothing.
It's barely run in if the mileage is correct.
Pistons look ok and you may get away with a hone and re-ring.
Rusty bores marks are where the the rings have been when the engine has been stood dormant a long time.
Light coloured valves are nothing to do with water, those middle ex valves aren't a bad colour. it indicates they MAY have been running hotter, slightly leaner than the outers but most likely it's the outers that are darker because of possible recent over rich mixture or over oiling due to the rings or shot stem seals or both or even that it's just only been running on 2 cylinders recently and the outers are fuel soaked .
Sorting the rings and seals along with a carb overhaul and checking the ignition should cure all that.

Nothing wrong with the starter motor shaft. it's held in by the cover.
Timing advancer is rough . It should rotate freely on it's shaft for the engine to run decent. give it a clean and lube and check that the weights can move on their pivots, check that the springs are not weak/slack and can return the weights at standstill.
Tank badge strap is spot welded on at 2 points.
Everyone just fills over them if they want a smooth look. Just be sure to remove or neutralize the rust other wise it will carry on eating the tank under the filler.

seanile wrote:

is there any way to remove this metal strap? i'm going to be repainting it and would like a smooth-sided tank.

Yes you can remove the dot welded metal strap with this tool.




It is a common tool for a car bodywork repair.
I have removed the metal strap from my tank and filled the depression and tin coated the complete tank surface
with tin and a big soldering iron, (for rust protection).





Michael

thank you both! i'll hunt down that drill bit

re: the pistons, i'm going to pull them off tonight for a cleaning. is a popsicle stick still the recommended tool for getting carbon of them and the valves?
i've ordered a flex ball hone for the cylinders, 240 grit.

the rings will be coming from z1enterprises, but i'm a bit confused about the replacement circlips. i've read they must be replaced..ok, but where to find them? z1's selection is limited to wiseco clips which are said to be for "wiseco pistons only" ( www.z1enterprises.com/piston-clip-pair-1...00-1000-gpz1100.html ). would those work?

i also plan on replacing the valve seals, probably lapping them (does anyone have any recommended resources on how-to?)
and the carb is getting a deep clean and re-sync.

regarding the advancer...would a wire brush to remove the rust not be the appropriate tool? i'm assuming there are some very sensitive bits there...
i've tried to find a replacement on z1parts and z1enterprises, with no luck. the ones on redline are limited to 1980 and earlier models ( redlinecycle.com/Electronic%20Ignition.html ).

i removed the pistons yesterday. i had to take the pin of the #1 piston out its right side because the left side of the piston's casting around the pin's hole looked to have a slight, but solid, lip of metal that was stopping the pin from sliding any further. is this something i should hone? ignore? or take as an indication of the piston warping?

and while i'm bumping..i'll re-ask two questions hidden in my wall of text above:
- z1's selection is limited to wiseco clips for the pistons, which are said to be for "wiseco pistons only" ( www.z1enterprises.com/piston-clip-pair-1...00-1000-gpz1100.html ). would those work?
-would a wire brush to remove the rust not be the appropriate tool for cleaning up the timing advancer?

Partzilla.com shows it has the piston clips in stock for a buck each.

Don't use Wiseco piston clips as they are probably a different gauge and diameter and will pop out causing untold damage when the wristpin decides to eat into the cylinder wall and the clip gets chewed up by the transmission.

IF you have a air compressor, then the easiest way to clean the carbon off of the pistons and cylinder head with out hours of scrubbing and scratching away at the aluminum, is to get a cheap spot blaster gun and a big box of baking soda from the grocery store. I have a small 20 gallon compressor and blasting with baking soda removes the carbon in seconds. It literally takes longer to set up everything up than it does to blast everything clean.
I don't have a blasting cabinet, so I put everything in a big plastic storage container and blast away in the driveway.
**Baking soda kills grass in large amounts so don't do it in the yard**

A bucket of carb dip works great to eat off carbon from pistons and valves. Let them soak for a few days and then the carbon will scrape off easily. This method works particularly well for cleaning the carbon out of the piston grooves which is critical.

A brass brush will do a good job and do not scratch or grind the piston dome surface.
Tape the piston ring notches before you start cleaning.



Michael