Getting close to camshaft install. Got .410 cams with APE adjustable sprockets. I'm very familiar with the timing procedure, and already have a cam cover cut in half to have the upper guide in position on the chain for timing.
I've been very wary of initial timing on the sprockets when I first bolt the cams in. Here's my plan. Let me know if you guys have any better methods.
I have a test head and I plan on removing all valves but #1 intake and exhaust. I'll then lay the exhaust cam in position with #1 exhaust lobe pointing forward in the position where I have valve clearance. From there I'll line up the timing mark with the head/cover surface (the sprocket bolts should be somewhere near the middle of the slots), and tighten the bolts. Same thing on the intake with the lobe pointing rear. I'll even have the chain on and count the links to confirm everything. In theory this should give me in the ball park of zero degrees on both, and a safe spot to install and begin timing.
I wouldn't muck about with the stripped out head unless you have to.
Just bolt the cams on the sprockets with the bolts in the middle of the slots.
Drop them in on the timing marks with the cam lobes facing each other and parallel with the gasket face when viewed from the right ( ign side), fit your sectioned cover, then the camchain tensioner and away you go
I know what you're saying. Big timing window before valve contact. But I'm still a little paranoid..
Don't know if you saw my posts on the sprockets being off-center with the crank and guides because these are KZ cams going in a J engine. APE machined them for me to center, but accidentally did two intakes, so I'll have to add my own mark on the intake and be sure the bolts are centered in the slots at that position.
That's why I want to try this method to avoid any issues. No big deal pulling the valves on the other head.
