FittingOil pressure Light to 80's GPZ oil pan

Thanks Corey, no need for a picture, I found it (8mm hex key) . I will remove ii and see if i can find a sensor that matches the thread.

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What's the pressure switch thread anyway? Metric? Tapered? Npt?

I don't know what sixe the factory pressure switch is but i removed the oil pan gallery plug and its 3/8 BSPT

that's interesting... so no hardware store pipe fittings for that (in the U.S.).

Do you guys in Australia use BSPT for indoor plumbing?

I had to look that up. This is a nice little page on the differences between BSPP BSPT NPS and NPT.
pipeandhose.com/?q=node%2F2

BSP or BSPT is common over here both residential and industrial, Even though where supposed to be a Metric country we still like to mix it up a little.
The local auto parts store will have a 3/8 male-1/8 female reducer.
While reading the FSM on came across the OIl switch thread size/ its a bit ambiguous as all it says is PT 1/8..
i cant find the factory pressure switching point so i cant just buy a cheap after market option

some clips from the base manual.





Sooo if im reading that right. the oil light is on when the bike is idling :whistle:

No that's wrong. When I bump-start my bike, the oil pressure light goes off before the bike gets anywhere near idle speed.

Maybe my pressure switch is weak and turns off too soon? I haven't ever put a gauge on it.

That's partly why I never put an indicator light for oil pressure on my other two bikes. It seems like the bike would have to be almost entirely out of oil before the light would come on. (My home-made indicator gives me a green light when pressure is good and 4 red lights if the pressure is too low to activate the switch.)

I just make sure to check the oil level frequently.

When I do an oil change, and restart the bike, the light does stay on red longer than usual.

I would revise that text to read "If the light comes on at all while riding, immediately lock up the brakes and stop the motor."

I know you probably have the motor torn apart still, but have you finalized what you're going to do about adding a pressure switch?

For anyone interested I posted a page about 550 oil pans. There are at least 7 types.
Luckily there were plenty of photos available online.
s3.amazonaws.com/gpzweb/OilPans/Kz550oilPans.html

I bought a 3/8" - 1/8" BSP Reducing Bush from the local auto parts store and a 6psi pressure switch. They screw straight into the main oil gallery in the oil pan,
No drilling and tapping required Once the motors back in i will wire it up to an LED.

Ah, that looks nice.

Wozza wrote: I bought a 3/8" - 1/8" BSP Reducing Bush from the local auto parts store and a 6psi pressure switch. They screw straight into the main oil gallery in the oil pan,
No drilling and tapping required Once the motors back in i will wire it up to an LED.

Back in 2008, I tried adding a Daytona Oil Temp Gauge pick-up to that location, and if you are using a 4-1 exhaust(street or race), it might come too close to the header. Good place to get pressure from.
I would think oil temperature would be just as, if not more important than oil pressure?

I am now using a Trail Tech TTO Oil Temp Gauge, but I don't see they make one for oil pressure.
www.trailtech.net/

KZ/GPz550 Oil Flow Chart

I also think the oil temp gauge would be much more important as its directly related to how the engine is being used or abused
The Light will just warn me something happened in the oil feed circuit and needs further investigation.
I am also going to blueprint my oil pump to get the best from it before its refitted to the engine, then hook up my pressure gauge i use for testing to get a feel for what the pressures doing at different temps and rpm then just running the warning light,
The oil temp gauge would be much more practical as its directly related to how the engine is being used or abused at the time
I thought about using one of these AN fittings to put a sender on the oil cooler line