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You ain't lying Jeez it was a wild little putt to get gas that's for sure. Gonna throw em back on in the morning. This is my first Kawasuckmi my yamhahahas don't have those. I appreciate the help

Could a mechanical spark advance unit cause this issue if not working properly?

This is gonna sound lame but anyone know someone who rebuilds kz carbs? The guys around here want 650+ parts and the wait for one guy was 5 months.... Side note after removing the pilot jets plugs it popped alot but ripped in low rpms. No difference in my top end yet. Dealing with a float needle not setting correctly at the moment. Carbs suck

I rebuild carbs but I wouldn't be willing to do it because I can't tune the AFR without being at the bike with it running. With a 4 into 1 and the pods being the bigger issue for CV carbs, I couldn't adjust the AFR properly.
My bet is you have Mikuni BS34 carbs on the bike. True? That is what came on them stock.
Several things can cause the symptoms you describe. Daveo's comment about the mechanical advance could well be the issue. It is simple to remove, clean, lube and restore. It is something I do to every new bike I get as part of the initial maintenance. Did you check it?

It can be the carbs. You spoke about the plugs over the pilot jets. If you look down the opening for the main jet there is an opening near the top between the main jet and the pilot jet that allows it to operate. (looking at the main from the bottom turned over in your hand) What can often happen with those damnable pods is they don't create enough vacuum to life the sliders and pull the needles up further opening the main jet. It can also be a leak in the diaphragms on the sliders. TEST - Carbs out on the bench, ensure the choke plunger is closed, raise the slider and cover up the oblong port at the top of the intake bell with your thumb and release the slider. It should drop VERY slowly. If it doesn't you have a leak preventing the sliders from raising and pulling up the needles out of the main jet.

If the carbs on back on the bike, pull the pods off and see if they rise (should be fairly even) when you go past 4K to 4.5K rpms. Keep a fan blowing directly on the engine when you are running the bike in a stationary position.

This vid may help orient you as well.


These are not your carbs but it will give you a sense of what you should see if the sliders are operating properly.


If you give Daveo, me and others feedback on what you found when we ask you to check something, you'll get better help.

First off thank you for the help. I know y'all are a treasure trove of info I just gotta ask the right questions. I'm a total beginner with these motors I've had 4 80s yamahahas but this is a whole nother beast.

I bought this bike about a year ago it had the carbs and most of the engine cradle(frame). I've had to build and find everything else to get this bike on the road. I honestly appreciate you helping me.

Anyway back to the problem I checked the timing advance and it seem like my Blu wire leading to the left pulsar is dis attached well someone tried to re connect them but I touched it and the wires fell apart. I'm thinking this might be the issue.
(I was gonna get a dyna ignition is that still a good idea?)
I'm ordering a set of needles and seats cuase one set I got just won't seal no matter what I try no biggie.

I got a carb sync and can do the rejet work and air mixture adjustments with my dad's help to get the afr correct. If I got them rebuilt to stock I could go from there. Just like with the yamhas.
I have herd that CV carbs hate hate hate pod filters. And I know how well bikes run with the air box but I'm just in a spot where I can't get the og box to fit.

Ordered new intake boots these are a bit worn out

Can't find diaphragms but I haven't checked mine gonna get the carb to stop leaking first then test them the videos were pretty informative.

Back to the timing. Any specific lube to use or avoid?
And notes on where the plate should be? Mines turned all the way to the right ( clockwise as far as it can go.


Someone at some point was trying to make this a drag bike there's a bunch of wierd stuff I keep finding the more I look.

I'm gonna keep you posted on everything I really do appreciate the advice thanks again sir.

Thinking it's either a vacuum leak
Lack of enough vacuum
Ignition timing could be dirty
And is currently missing a wire
Anything else to check?

CV carbs don't like pods but it is doable. I just did it for a buddy that insisted on having them. It is a PITA, but with patience you can get there. Everything has to be on the nose with the carbs and you have to dork around with the jetting. I put a Dyna ignition and coils on my KZ650 D2 and love it. That was a conversion from points to solid stat (Dyna) You spoke about a blue wire to a pulsar. Does this have electronic ignition on it? Are you calling the points a pulsar? If you have electronic ignition you will not have a mechanical advance.
Mechanical advance if you have one: Clean the shaft and the inside of the advance mechanism. I've used a thin coat of moly grease. I suspect synthetic grease would work just fine. Also clean up the pivot shafts on the centrifical weights, and I like to put a very thin coat of grease on those pivots with a q-tip. You don't want any grease flinging around in there.

Diaphragms: Do the checks with the sliders, do the visual inspections. The crew here will shoot you a link to replacements if you need them. I've only had to replace one set. I recently learned that it helps to put a thin coat of o-ring silicone grease on the sealing edge of the diaphragms. It does help especially if an edge has been mashed.

Your punch list is a good place to start, but add Scirocco's petcock and fuel filter checks. Truth be told he is a better tech than I am.

I wasn't dogging you earlier, but we need to know exactly what you checked and what you found to hone in on the issue. Many things may cause your problem.