1978 KZ400 No Spark - Points Wiring Question

I've got a 78 KZ400 with a no spark issue. I've got over 12V going to the points plate but I think the wires are grounding out somehow. I suspect the wire from the coils is the issue and wonder if I've connected the condenser and coil wire into the points incorrectly, such that wires are grounding out? Can anyone tell me the correct sequence of screw/washer/spring/wires? What should I specifically be looking for to avoid a short?

Here's how I've tested so far:

- Multimeter at the ignition plate end of the blue points cable reads over 12V. Definitely current going into the points.
- I've tested the points using a continuity tester while the plate is off the bike and unplugged. Points closed shows continuity. Open shows no continuity. Points are definitely working.
- When the points plate is back on the bike and the condenser and coil wire reattached, there's no break in the current no matter whether the points are open or closed.

Any help is appreciated.

Make sure all the little insulators are in place. The pics below show the points for the KZ650, but the insulators on yours may be similar.

Assuming all the insulators are correct, try disconnecting the wire that connects the points to the coil – do this where the coil wire and points wire connect. After disconnecting the wires see if continuity then breaks at the points when the crankshaft is rotated. If so, the points should be ok and may simply need to be set. Ed

Thank you, Ed. This is very helpful, but I still am having issues.

I checked the insulators. While there's no separate small round insulator, The insulators themselves have a small ridge in the center that fits into both sides of the hole I assume to insulate the screw.

I disconnected the points where the harness connects to the points wire and continuity breaks when the crankshaft is rotated. Unfortunately, when I plug the points back into the harness, continuity no longer breaks. What does that mean?

The fact that continuity breaks when the points-to-coil wire is disconnected means the points are properly insulated. With that wire disconnected you should be able to set the points gap and dwell using the static method. I always disconnect the points-to-coil wires when doing the static points adjustments. Be sure to set the gap first, then the dwell. Have you adjusted points before or is this the first time? Ed

Put a plug in a plug wire lay it on the head take the wire off the points turn key on and ground it for a moment
it should spark when you unground it. Remember the wire to the points is a neg. not pos. wire.

Got it working. The problem was with how I was testing the circuit. I had the continuity tester grounded on the fins, but was testing the positive lead on the points spring. The light stayed on regardless of whether the points were opened or closed. Then I put the points lead at the end of the wire leading to the coils. At that point, the tester went off when the points broke. Thank you both for your help.

I did the static timing according to the manual. It's not my first time, but the first on this bike. Once the bike is running, I'm keen to borrow a strobe tester from the local auto supply shop to get the timing properly dialed in.

At least now I've got spark on both sides. I'm currently de-rusting the tank with some apple vinegar cider while I wait for a new air filter. I hope to try firing the bike up by mid week...