Cam problem

Pipes66 wrote: Thanks SWest,
I guess that's a job for when I split the cases.

No need to split cases to fit the gate, pump and pressure gauge.

May be late but wanted to add something I learned on J motor pumps. I'm pretty sure the pressure relief valve on the pump only came OEM on the 1000R (not sure on GPz). And it's only there for pressure blow-off if you get a clogged oil cooler. And these pumps are pretty strong. A more common cause of a pressure problem is a restrictive aftermarket oil filter.

A bit tricky for me to mount a guage there lol.
I've been using the standard champion filter.

Before I got my cooler setup I had this. There's a tap on the riser under the oil pressure switch.
Steve

I'm running an oil cooler,this is my set up. I didn't think a guage would work correctly on a 10-12" pipe. Would a tee off the oil cooler line work?

Pipes66 wrote: I'm running an oil cooler,this is my set up. I didn't think a guage would work correctly on a 10-12" pipe. Would a tee off the oil cooler line work?

Yes! any where in the oil feed will work.
Ideally the closer to the main gallery the better..
The fitting on the back of the gauge is usually 1/8 bsp but you don't have to fit the gauge direct to the engine .
You can run a capillary tube and have it in plain sight on the dash or in the fairing .
Max pressure you will see is around 3 to 5 psi cold with it dropping off to nearly zero when hot at tickover..

Those fittings look way too restrictive. What is the ID going into the blocks? The lower end gets the oil first then if the volume is enough the cams will get what they need.
Steve

kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/600430-zx7-z1...-cooler?limitstart=0

Interesting thread, oil and/ defective shims I would guess. I know megacycle specify a fully or semi synth oil on some of their hotter cam grinds and that engine should not be idled. Also new buckets IRRC

Those shims look suspect - have they been ground down it to resize or incorectly hardened ?

A race cam and valvetrain takes massive abuse - as opposed to a mild fast road cam , with softer opening and closing ramps which tend to wear much less.

There is a guy on ebay uk who sold me some NOS yoshimura rings, you might want to stock up on certain parts now if you can as they are almost unobtainable . The pistons also use a custom thin wire size - I needed teflon buttons made up (GPz590)



BTW I know Yoshimura did Titanium valve collets on some models, you may have them on that.

Just asking here, but why would you want to run a full time oil pressure gauge, instead of an oil temp gauge. If psi is being checked used for testing purposes, I can see why you are doing this.

It's comforting to know what the oil pressure is and in my case the head temperature. I thought about putting another tap on the cooler line to monitor the oil temp but like this better.
Steve

A capillary pipe, of course!.
It'd be interesting to have oil temp though. I started racing using synthetic oil and had clutch problems,it also leaked like a sieve.id like to know how hot I'm running. I don't want to open a can of worms but maybe I'd be better off using the oil pressure switch for confirmation on start up.
Are there high flow oil filters available without the mesh the standard ones have?
The fittings must have7-8mm bores iirc,maybe more. I've just picked up a set like yours though,I'll investigate.
Shims were standard exchanged items. I'm hoping it was the oil pump set up. I'll know soon coz it's Brands Hatch in 2 weeks.

I shot this clip while I was doing my carbs with this thread in mind. When I installed my cooler blocks I tried to keep the ID's at least 12mm. Most are 13mm. Being the oil has further to go I didn't want any restrictions. This is what I came up with for the tap and Temp. gauge.
Steve