'80 kz440 A1, starting issues, died while riding

Nebr_Rex:
Took apart the petcock and it looked good!
I have attached pictures of the fuel filter, both sides, and the diaphragm, both sides and the middle.
Everything looked okay....hm..

I cleaned everything out while I had it apart.
I did notice a weird mesh circle...material...thing...in the place where the vacuum valve sits. Upon cleaning I accidentally blew this out...I don't know if it was meant to be there or not, but it's gone! Might have to order a new one if it's important

I replaced the petcock, but putting fuel in the tank, fuel was leaking from the 2 bolts that hold the petcock assembly, and I think I tightened them enough, maybe the gasket got ruined in that time.

I'll continue on it tomorrow, think I'm getting close!

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationThe 2 washers that go on the bolts that secure the petcock to the fuel tank are suppose to be nylon, not steel. Nylon is what the original washers were made of. If your washers are steel they will probably continue to leak no matter how tight you make them. Ed

See part marked 13 (92022-183) in www.powersportswarehouse.com/p/Kawasaki#...40-A1-1980/080124E-6 .


Then for closeup picture of those washers see:

That is your vacuum 'pump'.
Does it run if the petcock is left on prime [PRI]


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650ed:
It indeed has nylon washers :]

Note: no more leak, just made bolts tighter

Still fuel problem so....

Tested the vacuum on the petcock. I took the vacuum tube that connects to the carb and sucked on it. I did not get gas in my mouth or a clear passage. I got immediate resistance which means petcock working, correct?
Reinstalled
I then pulled the fuel line off the carb and into a bucket. Started the bike, engine turned over, but no fuel came out! It was just dripping barely.
So I took apart the petcock again, and still nothing wrong.

I am able to run the bike perfectly fine leaving the petcock in the 'prime' position.

Maybe there is a vacuum leak somewhere else?

Once I open the throttle the engine goes out.

Maybe check float levels?

Thanks again to everyone, step by step!

Yes I am able to run it in prime :]
But as soon as I open the throttle the engine goes out as I said below.
Sorry, I didn't see your post before I uploaded mine

No problem,
In pic 4 there is suppose to be a round rubber washer that acts as a valve.
Do you have it?


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Yep, just didn't include it in the picture
I'm going to check out the floats later, maybe tomorrow, it wouldn't hurt.
My service manual says to use a special fuel gauge tool which I don't have. Says the fuel level is to be 3-5mm but I don't know where that would be in relation to

I've seen the clear tube method and actually taking the carb apart and checking the float until the needle seats barely.
Would you happen to know the height the floats are supposed to be? I've heard in the 9mm range for some bikes

newkzrider18 wrote: ...service manual says ... the fuel level is to be 3-5mm but I don't know where that would be in relation to

I've seen the clear tube method and actually taking the carb apart and checking the float until the needle seats barely.

Would you happen to know the height the floats are supposed to be? I've heard in the 9mm range for some bikes

3-5mm below bowl gasket

use clear tube test to assure fuel level is within specs (float height merely regulates fuel level)

Would you happen to know the height the floats are supposed to be? -- Float height is supposed to be whatever height results in the correct fuel level.

Good Fortune!

Patton:
Okay! Taking the carb apart for the third time haha

Will check in tomorrow with good news hopefully...

Disassembly is not required for the clear tube test.

Would perform the clear tube test on each carb before doing any carb disassembly.

Might discover that the fuel levels are okay.

Good Fortune!

Upon doing the clear tube test I found that my left carb measured at 9mm and my right at 12mm from the bottom of the carb body.
My service manual specifies that it must be 3-5mm.

I was able to adjust the tang of the float for the right assembly, but it seems that no matter how much I move the tang down of the left assembly the fuel level remains at 9mm.....

I checked that the spring/compressor cylinder head thing on the top of the float needle moved up and down smoothly, and that the float needle slid in and out of it's seat smooth. I also checked the pin that holds these all together.
So it's not like anything is blocking it since fuel is coming in too I think...

Anyone got ideas?