MTC-G1135-3 Piston Kit

Thinking about it (under my stock 84 bathtub head and ZX cams), with no changes to the bottom-end. :whistle:

www.mtceng.com/mtcproducts/products/pistons/kawasaki/gpz1100


Requesting member advice.

Check Pricing thru Joe at Pitstop ./ He works closely with MTC and usually has the best prices
Dave

Regardless as to what some have said about Joe , I have had all good dealings with him.

Got me think in about it too and it sounds like a blast. Am looking forward to seeing what kind of power increase Joe tells you you might expect......... guessing with the cams, head, carbs, cc's and improved comp it will be a real kick.

Will the old bottom-end be able to handle the stress and pressure increases? She is a stress monger, but

daveo wrote: Will the old bottom-end be able to handle the stress and pressure increases? She is a stress monger, but

Hi Dave
Unless you have a existing problem with the bottom end you should be fine. If racing is intended you may want to weld the crank.
If you want another qualified opinion , e mail or call Les Holt or Joe at Pitstop
Dave

Need some APE studs and cylinder head nuts, crank welding and center main bearing plate.
I did bore my crank case 15 year ago for 1197 cc sleeves in case i go this way.

Scirocco wrote: Need some APE studs and cylinder head nuts, crank welding and center main bearing plate.
I did bore my crank case 15 year ago for 1197 cc sleeves in case i go this way.

Got the top-end covered, but the bottom is likely to remain bone-stock. :whistle:

Dave,

I think the only weakness to be concerned with is the stock crankshaft. I've had two 81 cranks twist (but only 81's) and a few bathtub head GPz cranks that chewed up number 5 main bearing when the thrust bearing (actually just a cheap thrust washer) next to it self destructed and the hard steel shrapnel then washed through the bearing. That is why my search continues for a good useable GPz 18 mm small end crank...I've got two with ruined no. 5 bearing journals already.

I recommend getting your crank disassembled, checked, replace the thrust washer with a Torrington needle roller bearing, re-assembled, indexed, straightened, and welded. It costs about $500-700, but in my mind it is worth it. If a main or rod bearing goes, or the crank twists, it will cost much more than that to fix...

-Scott

Not sure I'll be doing much more with this bike, than potentially selling it. Then I would get cranky for sure. :lol:

In a week or so will know if my toy box belongs to someone else. At that point I will have only a single-stall garage to put my bike along with a bunch of woodworking machines and tools in, including her 98 Blazer which barely fits.
I hope to sell my collection of work-related stuff by the end of August...and do a couple jobs at the same time...possible, but not likely.

Several big life changes may well be in-coming...

as long as you you don't plan to be doing hard launches with sticky tires you shouldn't have any trouble out of a stock crank with the 10.5-1 kit.

imho,

leon

Is there a fortification option for the crank without having to split the case, with the engine still in the frame?

the only way to strengthen the crank is to weld it.
so therefore the answer is "NO".
sorry

leon