Exhaust wrap revisited

  • Shdwdrgn
  • Shdwdrgn's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • User
  • User
    Registered
  • Posts: 611
  • Thanks: 24

Exhaust wrap revisited

23 Jun 2017 23:00
#765238
I have some 4>2 pipes with light surface rust, but since I'm not a big fan of chrome I had planned on sandblasting and painting them anyway. What I keep seeing though is that the individual pipes from the engine still get hot enough to soften even header paint, resulting in yearly touch-ups and such. To get around that I was thinking of wrapping the individual pipes down to where they come together, then paint the remaining combined pipes and mufflers. My quick search here though suggests that rusting is a huge issue with the pipe wraps, but folks seem to be having good success with painting the sandblasted pipes, doing the wrap, then painting the wrap to seal the cloth against moisture. Sounds logical to me, and has the added advantage that the wrap will then match the rest of the color scheme...

Keeping in mind this is a low-budget rattle-can rebuild, are the steps above still generally accepted as the most likely to succeed in preventing the pipes from rusting out from trapped moisture? I'm in Colorado so the Summer humidity is generally quite low although we do see occasional rain. My original plan was to go with VHT header paint because they have the color I wanted (cast-iron) -- is there any reason NOT to use this brand of paint? And I would assume as the paint softens from heat, it would help stick the wrap in place so it doesn't slip? Also one of the threads mentioned putting the fiberglass wrap on "wet"... I'm not sure what this means? Actually soaking it in water? Is there some kind of resin or other stuff that is used to apply the tape to the pipes?

And finally, the width of the wrap. It seems like 1" is generally recommended as the easiest to fit on the smaller pipes. Would this also be true of the KZ1000 pipes or should I jump to the 2"? Is it best to ensure overlap of each layer, or should I try to arrange each turn to lay flat side-by-side (with some unavoidable overlap inside the bends of the pipe)? Does the overlap really matter as long as I get all of the pipe surface covered?

I know this is just one of those controversial subjects, but it seems some folks have made it work with a spray-paint finish and I'm hoping to follow in their footsteps.
1981 KZ1000-JK1
She's a beautiful mess, and I've made her all mine

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • KGKZ1K
  • KGKZ1K's Avatar
  • Offline
  • User
  • User
    Registered
  • Posts: 36
  • Thanks: 3

Re: Exhaust wrap revisited

02 Aug 2017 17:52
#768187
Shdwdrgn wrote: I have some 4>2 pipes with light surface rust, but since I'm not a big fan of chrome I had planned on sandblasting and painting them anyway. What I keep seeing though is that the individual pipes from the engine still get hot enough to soften even header paint, resulting in yearly touch-ups and such. To get around that I was thinking of wrapping the individual pipes down to where they come together, then paint the remaining combined pipes and mufflers. My quick search here though suggests that rusting is a huge issue with the pipe wraps, but folks seem to be having good success with painting the sandblasted pipes, doing the wrap, then painting the wrap to seal the cloth against moisture. Sounds logical to me, and has the added advantage that the wrap will then match the rest of the color scheme...

Keeping in mind this is a low-budget rattle-can rebuild, are the steps above still generally accepted as the most likely to succeed in preventing the pipes from rusting out from trapped moisture? I'm in Colorado so the Summer humidity is generally quite low although we do see occasional rain. My original plan was to go with VHT header paint because they have the color I wanted (cast-iron) -- is there any reason NOT to use this brand of paint? And I would assume as the paint softens from heat, it would help stick the wrap in place so it doesn't slip? Also one of the threads mentioned putting the fiberglass wrap on "wet"... I'm not sure what this means? Actually soaking it in water? Is there some kind of resin or other stuff that is used to apply the tape to the pipes?

And finally, the width of the wrap. It seems like 1" is generally recommended as the easiest to fit on the smaller pipes. Would this also be true of the KZ1000 pipes or should I jump to the 2"? Is it best to ensure overlap of each layer, or should I try to arrange each turn to lay flat side-by-side (with some unavoidable overlap inside the bends of the pipe)? Does the overlap really matter as long as I get all of the pipe surface covered?

I know this is just one of those controversial subjects, but it seems some folks have made it work with a spray-paint finish and I'm hoping to follow in their footsteps.

I know this question was asked a few months ago...however it is one area that I have some solid experience with so here goes.

I have wrapped a few exhausts in the past...my own and for others (the joys of partaking in the streetfighter lifestyle..lmao).

I would recommend blasting and painting first...VHT is fine. I have used it in the past with good results. No rusting even after 2 or 3 years of shitty weather assholery ahem riding.. Keep your eye out for the one that advertises ceramic content on the can.

I personally recommend using 2 inch wrap...it is more difficult to manipulate around tight radius bends but gives a much more pleasing appearance when finished in my opinion.

Stainless steel zip ties are essential where you start (as close to exhaust flanges as possible!) ...and where you stop (usually at the collector).
Ensure to soak the wrap in warm water...pull as tightly as possible when putting it on and overlap as close to 50% as possible.

Put the header back on the bike and fire it up to dry out the wrap (this causes it to "case" and harden up slightly)....

I have seen wraps done properly that still look good 2 or 3 seasons in...and have seen jobs that look like they are going to fall off on the first ride...

One final note...I am not an advocate of wrapping exhausts that are in decent shape...it was kinda cool 10 years ago to hide the rashed out dented up pipes on the zx7 and such streetfighters I used to put together out of beat up old sportbikes...it has been quite overdone since in my estimation....but if you wish to proceed ignore this final disclaimer.
1980 kz1000 LTD
1982 Kz1000B
1980 honda cm400
2x 1993 zx7
1991 zx7 project
1978 km100
1979 'zuk PE250
1993 yz125
....all kinds of other cool shit
The following user(s) said Thank You: GPz550D1

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • Shdwdrgn
  • Shdwdrgn's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • User
  • User
    Registered
  • Posts: 611
  • Thanks: 24

Re: Exhaust wrap revisited

02 Aug 2017 19:32
#768196
Thanks for the feedback, and quite honestly I would prefer to keep the painted look... I've just heard it doesn't hold up that well. One thing I have to deal with by living right beside the mountains is that they use a ton of sand on the roads in the Winter around here. Now that obviously makes early-Spring mountain riding something you want to weigh considerably (and usually avoid), but the sand tends to hang around quite a ways into Summer so the cars in front of you are always kicking it up. This means that the front of any vehicle is basically sand-blasted, and this is something I also have to consider affecting the paint on the pipes since they will take the brunt of that.

I do plan to *start* by stripped down the chrome and giving the pipes a clean paint job. I've seen the ceramic paint you mentioned, and I believe it's even available in the cast-iron color I've been using. Since I've been getting the engine running , I have noticed the paint getting tougher, despite having already baked the parts in the oven, so I imagine the header paint will see similar results. I just don't know how well it will stand up to the road debris. Only time will tell. I could probably handle repainting every few years if needed, but not every single year. So depending on how the paint turns out, the wrap will be my backup plan.
1981 KZ1000-JK1
She's a beautiful mess, and I've made her all mine

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • slmjim+Z1BEBE
  • slmjim+Z1BEBE's Avatar
  • Offline
  • User
  • User
    Registered
  • Enjoy Life! IT HAS AN EXPIRATION DATE!
  • Posts: 1403
  • Thanks: 896

Re: Exhaust wrap revisited

03 Aug 2017 06:08
#768214
Hi shdwdrgn,
The wrap we've used in the past was fiberglass. Even when wet, it shed tiny, needle-like fibers. Suggest you wear leather or syn-leather gloves and a long sleeve shirt. If you've ever hung fiberglass insulation you'll understand.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE
A biker looks at your engine and chrome.
A Rider looks at your odometer and tags.

1973 ('72 builds) Z1 x2
1974 Z1-A x2
1975 Z1-B x2
1993 CB 750 Nighthawk x2
2009 ST1300A

www.kawasaki-z-classik.com
A Forum tightly focused on all things Z1 and Z2.
The following user(s) said Thank You: GPz550D1

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • Shdwdrgn
  • Shdwdrgn's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • User
  • User
    Registered
  • Posts: 611
  • Thanks: 24

Re: Exhaust wrap revisited

03 Aug 2017 06:13
#768215
Oh yeah, QUITE familiar. I also didn't realize the fluffy wool in my attic was fiberglass the first time I had to do any work up there, after half an hour of breathing it in I was hurting for days afterwards.
1981 KZ1000-JK1
She's a beautiful mess, and I've made her all mine

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • Patton
  • Patton's Avatar
  • Offline
  • KZr Legend
  • KZr Legend
    Registered
  • Posts: 18567
  • Thanks: 2103

Re: Exhaust wrap revisited

03 Aug 2017 07:28 - 03 Aug 2017 07:36
#768226
Had good long-lasting results by prepping clean dry header pipes with muriatic acid applied with a paint brush and allowed to sit for a minute before rinsing. Allowed to dry and rattle-can spray painted with flat black VHT from the local auto parts store. Lasted and kept same freshly painted good looks for several years. Did not flake or crack. And withstood pressure washing, gunk cleaning, S100 cleaning, etc.

Am guessing the muriatic acid application served to "prime" the surface because the paint adhered really well. Muriatic acid is inexpensive and readily available at swimming pool supply stores, Lowes, Home Depot, and the like.

If necessary, before the acid treatment, pitting could be reduced by very lightly wet-sanding with very fine sand-paper. No sand-blasting is needed unless the pipes are rusted beyond light pitting. And sand-blasting might even be detrimental over-kill by exposing more of the base metal which would rust more readily. I don't how glass-beading or other blast media might perform toward reducing pitting or removing rust.

Muratic acid is also a good and fast rust remover for fuel tank interiors.

Good Fortune!:)
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Last edit: 03 Aug 2017 07:36 by Patton.
The following user(s) said Thank You: GPz550D1

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • Shdwdrgn
  • Shdwdrgn's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • User
  • User
    Registered
  • Posts: 611
  • Thanks: 24

Re: Exhaust wrap revisited

03 Aug 2017 08:50
#768241
Hmm I didn't know muratic acid would work for that. My prep on other chrome parts has been to knock down the chrome somewhat with a small sandblaster which leaves a nice dull finish, then cleaning with non-chlorinated brake cleaner. The pipes I have are in really good shape for their age, so yeah if there's an option to leave the protective chrome in place and successfully paint over it, that would certainly be the preferred option. Is the stuff kind of gelled so it sticks to what you paint it on, or is it a fairly fluid? And can you work with it over a plastic tub, or should it be something else (other than my driveway)?
1981 KZ1000-JK1
She's a beautiful mess, and I've made her all mine

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • Patton
  • Patton's Avatar
  • Offline
  • KZr Legend
  • KZr Legend
    Registered
  • Posts: 18567
  • Thanks: 2103

Re: Exhaust wrap revisited

03 Aug 2017 09:17 - 03 Aug 2017 09:28
#768243
Do all of this outdoors. Muriatic fumes are harmful if inhaled. Don't fool with muriatic acid indoors or in a confined space. Store muriatic acid outdoors. Even when kept tightly sealed in the plastic jug it comes in, I don't keep it inside the garage, because anything metal nearby will start rusting.

The muriatic acid has the consistency of water, but could use a piece of cardboard or newspaper to catch the acid drip-off while applying acid with paintbrush, and then hose-rinse the whole area with tap water after rinsing the pipes.

Wear protective gloves and eye protection all the time while doing the acid treatment, and be careful not to get the acid on your skin. If any acid gets on your skin, rinse it off quickly. Muriatic acid is dangerous enough to burn skin if left on very long at all, but isn't as strong as sulfuric acid that's used in batteries. And don't inhale the fumes -- best to use outdoors in a nice breeze that keeps the fumes blown away.

Please don't neglect these precautions. :kiss:

Good Fortune! :)
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Last edit: 03 Aug 2017 09:28 by Patton.
The following user(s) said Thank You: GPz550D1

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • Shdwdrgn
  • Shdwdrgn's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • User
  • User
    Registered
  • Posts: 611
  • Thanks: 24

Re: Exhaust wrap revisited

03 Aug 2017 09:47
#768246
So it sounds exactly like the paint stripper I found that peels up powder-coat. Get a little drop splattered on exposed skin and woo-boy you sure know about it quick enough!
1981 KZ1000-JK1
She's a beautiful mess, and I've made her all mine

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • Patton
  • Patton's Avatar
  • Offline
  • KZr Legend
  • KZr Legend
    Registered
  • Posts: 18567
  • Thanks: 2103

Re: Exhaust wrap revisited

03 Aug 2017 10:09
#768251
Am glad to learn that there's a paint stripper that removes powder-coat.

Good Fortune! :)
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
The following user(s) said Thank You: GPz550D1

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • Shdwdrgn
  • Shdwdrgn's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • User
  • User
    Registered
  • Posts: 611
  • Thanks: 24

Re: Exhaust wrap revisited

03 Aug 2017 12:11
#768254
I guess now I'm going to have to check the bottle tonight so I can tell you what it is... :) Good stuff though, I bought it pretty cheap at walmart. It comes with a spray bottle and I just sprayed it right on the frame and engine components. Let it sit for about 15 minutes then hose it off. I had to do a second coat in some tighter areas but it left almost nothing behind.
1981 KZ1000-JK1
She's a beautiful mess, and I've made her all mine

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • KGKZ1K
  • KGKZ1K's Avatar
  • Offline
  • User
  • User
    Registered
  • Posts: 36
  • Thanks: 3

Re: Exhaust wrap revisited

04 Aug 2017 06:57
#768296
Patton wrote: Am glad to learn that there's a paint stripper that removes powder-coat.

Good Fortune! :)

On a side note...why would you want to strip powder coat?
Looking my latest project apparently it makes fantastic primer for black spray paint!
1980 kz1000 LTD
1982 Kz1000B
1980 honda cm400
2x 1993 zx7
1991 zx7 project
1978 km100
1979 'zuk PE250
1993 yz125
....all kinds of other cool shit

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Moderators: Street Fighter LTD
Powered by Kunena Forum