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KZ900 Clutch issues
- Bama704
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My clutch is not working at all. The last time I rode the bike, a few weeks ago, I had no issues at all nor have I ever had any problems like this. Last year I replaced the clutch plates, friction plates, and springs. My oil is right where it should be in the sight window and it is filled with Rotella T 15w-40. I have adjusted all three points for the clutch adjustment (at clutch lever, on the wire between the pipes, and at the push rod) with no change. If I hold in the clutch and try and roll the bike in first gear it does not engage and the wheel will not spin. Anybody have this happen before? I'm at a loss on what to do.
1977 KZ900
Carbs are late model 1975 28mm
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- KZB2 650
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1978 KZ650 b-2
700cc Wiseco kit 10 to 1.
1980 KZ750 cam, ape springs, stock clutch/ Barnett springs.
Vance and Hines Header w/ comp baffle and Ape pods, Dyna S and green coils, copper wires.
29MM smooth bores W/ 17.5 pilots, 0-6s and 117.5 main
16/42 gearing X ring chain and alum rear JT sprocket.
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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Steve
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- Bama704
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Steve, it is the stock actuator.
1977 KZ900
Carbs are late model 1975 28mm
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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Steve
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- Street Fighter LTD
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- TURBO, Its Better to be Blown than Injected
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Just a wild guess if all other checks fail
Dave
Original owner 78 1000 LTD
Mr Turbo Race Kit, MTC 1075 Turbo pistons by PitStop Performance , Falicon Ultra Lite Super Crank, APE everything. Les Holt @ PDM's Billet Goodies . Frame by Chuck Kurzawa @ Logghe Chassis . Deep sump 5qt oil pan. RIP Bill Hahn
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- Scirocco
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- Never change a running system
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Sometimes this could happen if a bike is not used over a long period, the clutch and friction plates "glued" together (adhesive effect).
Michael
My 1975 Z 1 B 900 Project
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/605133...ears-deep-sleep-mode
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- slmjim+Z1BEBE
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Sure sounds like stuck plates. Is the lever effort normal? Remove the teardrop cover from the countershaft cover. Observe the actuator (the part with the screw and locknut) as the lever is pulled. Does the actuator recede into the cover as it rotates? If so, and if you have a centerstand, try this. CAREFULLY!:
Put the bike on the centerstand. Make sure the rear tire is not touching the ground. Place it in neutral, start it and allow it to idle. You'll probably observe that the rear wheel will begin to turn slowly, even though it's in neutral. Pull the clutch lever in completely while it's idling and shift into 1st. gear. While keeping the clutch lever pulled in, gradually begin applying the rear brake. If the plates are stuck you might have to give it a little throttle to keep the motor running. If the clutch release mechanism is working correctly this should break the plates free. If it doesn't, the next thing to look at would be the clutch pushrod. It might be bent.
Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE
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1973 ('72 builds) Z1 x2
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- Bama704
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slmjim+Z1BEBE wrote: Hi Bama704,
Sure sounds like stuck plates. Is the lever effort normal? Remove the teardrop cover from the countershaft cover. Observe the actuator (the part with the screw and locknut) as the lever is pulled. Does the actuator recede into the cover as it rotates? If so, and if you have a centerstand, try this. CAREFULLY!:
Put the bike on the centerstand. Make sure the rear tire is not touching the ground. Place it in neutral, start it and allow it to idle. You'll probably observe that the rear wheel will begin to turn slowly, even though it's in neutral. Pull the clutch lever in completely while it's idling and shift into 1st. gear. While keeping the clutch lever pulled in, gradually begin applying the rear brake. If the plates are stuck you might have to give it a little throttle to keep the motor running. If the clutch release mechanism is working correctly this should break the plates free. If it doesn't, the next thing to look at would be the clutch pushrod. It might be bent.
Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE
Thanks for the advice, I will give this a shot. I have removed the teardrop cover from the countershaft cover and the actuator does recede into the cover as it rotates. I will try it this weekend with the rear wheel off the ground on my paddock stand.
Scirocco, I tried it with the oil cold and then I warmed up the bike as well, I had the same thoughts as you that it could be that the oil needs to warm up to get the plates to release.
1977 KZ900
Carbs are late model 1975 28mm
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- Bama704
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1977 KZ900
Carbs are late model 1975 28mm
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- RonKZ650
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321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.
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- 650ed
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If you do that for several minutes and the plates still do not break free there is another method you can try. If you have a hill near your house, or a friend who will push the bike, try this – put the transmission in neutral; roll the bike down the hill or have a friend push it until it’s moving at a decent speed; turn the ignition switch on; slip the transmission into 2nd gear. The engine should now start. Assuming it does, give the bike moderate throttle while pulling in the clutch lever and at the same time applying the brakes. This will normally cause the clutch plates to free up. I used this routine every morning for two years with my BSA when it had aluminum racing clutch plates in it. Be sure to do this where there is no traffic and you do not need to stop quickly as it may take 50 yards or more before the clutch plates free up. Also, under no circumstances start the bike in neutral and slam the tranny into gear while the bike is stationary thinking this will free up the plates. Doing that can break things bigtime! Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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