Clutch replacement

The clutch started slipping on my 82kz 750e, mostly in 4th getting on the onramp or up a stiff hill. Im planning on replacing the clutch plates but i see most places just sell the friction plates. Am i screwing up if i just swap out new friction plates?

If they aren't blued you can reuse them. Pics of the plates?
Steve

Welcome to KZR
The answer is after you have the clutch apart you can inspect the steel clutch plates and see what kind of shape they are in.
Looking for warped , heat scored , or just plain trashed condition. 9 times out of 10 the steels should be ok
Dave

You can lay the steel plates on glass and see if you can get even a .001" feeler blade underneath anywhere on the circumference to detect a warp.

I read an interesting article about steel plates. You may notice on one side the outer edge is rounded, the other side it's a sharp edge, the rounded edge should go towards the pressure plate for optimum neutral.

And on a street ride go OEM on the friction plates to avoid issues. And I'm sure you know if the oil grooves in the friction plates are directional, they can only go one way.

Another thing to consider is the oil are you using. If it is not JASO-MA compliant, which most modern car oils are not, it will damage the friction plates and make them slip. Ed

I havent opened it up yet, but just ordered friction plates, springs and gasket. I havent been paying much attention in the past but ill make sure to put motorcycle specific oil back in

If not already done, would FIRST perform clutch push rod adjustment.

Clutch push rod adjustment -- Need and Purpose
[This is a 1 minute job from start to finish, maybe 2 minutes the first time.]

The FSM covering Z1 and KZ900 includes a periodic maintenance chart requiring clutch push rod adjustment at 2000 mile (3000 km) intervals and explains the need therefor in separate text, which explanation is quoted verbatim as follows:

Besides cable stretch, clutch plate wear also causes the clutch to go out of adjustment, with a decrease in push rod play. Due to this wear, the push rod gradually moves closer to the clutch release lever (at the lower end of the clutch cable) until it touches the adjusting screw. When the rod is touching the screw and therefore has no play, the clutch will not engage fully and clutch slippage will occur. Note that the clutch push rod does not necessaily have play just because the clutch hand lever has play, and so hand lever play alone cannot be used to determine whether or not the clutch requires adjustment.


The FSM covering '77-'79 KZ1000's includes a periodic maintenance chart requiring clutch adjustment at 5000 km intervals, and explains the need therefor in slightly different language, which explanation is quoted verbatim as follows:

Clutch plate wear also causes the clutch to go out of adjustment. This wear causes the play between the push rod and the adjusting screw to gradually diminish until the push rod touches the adjusting screw. When this play is lost, the clutch will not engage fully, causing the clutch to slip.
NOTE: Even though the proper amount of play exists at the clutch lever, clutch lever play alone cannot be used to determine whether or not the clutch requires adjustment.

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end of excerpt

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While the clutch may indeed be worn out with plates needing replacement, it isn't uncommon to overlook or be unaware of the clutch push rod adjustment feature, especially without a manual. It is worrisome to see anyone of unknown experience, without a manual or failing to consult a manual, proceed with clutch disassembly and plate replacement, without first being aware of and considering the clutch push rod adjustment.

Where both (1) clutch cable slack adjustment is perfect, and (2) clutch push rod adjustment is perfect, and the clutch still slips, suspicion is certainly toward the plates being worn and needing replacement. But other things can also cause slippage, even with proper adjustments and good plates, such as glazed plates or improper oil being used in the crankcase.

Good Fortune!

The majority of the time a slipping clutch can be fixed by installing a new set of OEM stock springs. The springs tend to sag after 35 years and lose clamp force. While the clutch cover is off I'd measure the friction plate thickness of course and ditch the plates if they are too thin. Beware of HD springs. They will make your hand ache and are unnecessary with a clutch that's in decent shape.

VTEC wrote: <snip> I read an interesting article about steel plates. You may notice on one side the outer edge is rounded, the other side it's a sharp edge, the rounded edge should go towards the pressure plate for optimum neutral.<snip>

VTEC, when and if you get a chance and if that article is on line, could you share a link with us??? I thought it was the "cut" side that goes toward the pressure plate. But I get stuff stuck in my head and I can never be 100% sure if my memory is what it used to be. Getting old isn't for sissies.

Coffee time.....................Gordon in NC

I ran this question towards Jeff at Z1 years back and he told me that and said it might engage a little smoother (rounded edge toward the pressure plate) (but to be honest waiting for his reply I went ahead and buttoned it up with the sharp edge facing thinking it would maybe bite a little harder and left it.....

He also said keep them all the same regardless of which direction you go or you will loose a tiny bit of surface area. A few members ribbed me about it (one even said it was one of the dumbest things he's read on here) and said it would make no diif at all but hey I was just reporting what I was told and I always thought Jeff to be a very smart guy when it comes to bikes. Springs are cheap insurance I think too and am a big believer in replacing them.

Google which direction to put steel plates on a motor cycle clutch.... I just did a got a bunch of hits.... almost scared to read em as I plan on keeping mine sharp edge/pressure plate.

Gordoninnc wrote:

VTEC wrote: <snip> I read an interesting article about steel plates. You may notice on one side the outer edge is rounded, the other side it's a sharp edge, the rounded edge should go towards the pressure plate for optimum neutral.<snip>

VTEC, when and if you get a chance and if that article is on line, could you share a link with us??? I thought it was the "cut" side that goes toward the pressure plate. But I get stuff stuck in my head and I can never be 100% sure if my memory is what it used to be. Getting old isn't for sissies.

Coffee time.....................Gordon in NC

You're right. Sorry. Cut side out. I knew that just wrote it wrong.

It was on KawiForums: www.kawiforums.com/how-tos-faqs/47954-clutch-assembly-tips.html

Can't vouch for the author, but it sure sounds like he knows what he's talking about.

Heck, I'm not sure it matters but it does make sense to at least put them all the same way.

Thanks for checking on that but it wouldn't surprise me that with enough research you'll find somebody else that seems knowledgeable that doesn't agree??????

It's all good........Gordon in NC who's trying to warm up after a very wet and cold ride.