Progress so far.

Progress is going fairly well with my KZ 1000 J1. So far II have checked the valve clearances, rebuilt the brakes, new braided brake lines, new rubbers in the master cylinders and calipers, so if nothing else it stops pretty good.Cleaned and re-built the carbs. I renewed the starter clutch and here is where my present problem started. When I removed the damaged flywheel there was evidence that it had been slipping on the crankshaft, it's the type with a tapered fit and no woodruff key, so it has to be a tight fit. I got a replacement rotor of the same type, but presumably due to the scoring on the crankshaft end I cant seem to get it bolted up tight enough to stop it from slipping. Any helpful advice would be appreciated.

Next time I have mine off I'll lap it on with valve grinding compound. Never tried that before. :dry:
Steve

swest wrote: Next time I have mine off I'll lap it on with valve grinding compound. Never tried that before. :dry:
Steve

I had the same issue, once the taper gets to spin you have to use valve grinding paste to lap it in till it starts to lock on taper, then I tightened it to the torque specs in the manual Note: there is a huge difference in torque from the Z900 (taper with key and smaller bolt) to the 1000 (no taper and larger bolt). The other problem I had was the inner washer with the rubber lip (on the starter gear), there are three sizes in width, if you have the wrong size (I got the larger size through ebay :blush: :blush: )you might not be able to tighten the rotor onto the taper properly. If you have an original you should be ok.
The 1000J1 has a different alternator but the taper has the same "arrangement" as the older KZ

Using some Loctite bearing and stud compound on the taper may help. I'd do the lapping business first though.

When I removed the damaged flywheel there was evidence that it had been slipping on the crankshaft, it's the type with a tapered fit and no woodruff key, so it has to be a tight fit.
Had same prob.. 78 1000 .. emory cloth both pieces where they fit together, LOTS of blue locktight, torqued to 5lbs more than spec (55 ft lbs ??), So far, so good. even with 180 static compression.

Nessism wrote: Using some Loctite bearing and stud compound on the taper may help. I'd do the lapping business first though.

I was going to mention Loctite but forgot. Don't use emery cloth because the surfaces need to be a 100% fit, the only way to do that is to put valve paste on the tapers (both ) and rotate slowly til you don't hear/ feel any rough grinding (use course initally) do this till you can see that the faces are evenly warn. Then you you think you got it right gently tap the rotor on a dry/clean shaft, in theory it should lock on, take it off again, Apply loctite (small amount evenly) and do up the bolt to the torque in manual. that should not come off unless you want it to.

Thanks for the help guys, I'll give it another try this weekend. Hopefully this is the last hurdle and I can get it on the road for the new year.

Plus one on what Bozo added about the correct bolt, washers and spacers. There are differences among sources of the same part number rotor and possible damage to the crank from past spin weld etc. I understand lapping it could aid, but if it don't tighten up my guess is wrong rotor, wrong crank or wrong mounting hardware spacers. Half the time getting em off's the PIA. Good luck. R