Can't figure out gpz!!!

Hi im new (first post actually) and im hoping somebody can tell me. My bike will randomly run like crap when it's warm. Mainly after I've been riding it hard. It will miss to the point it shuts off. Then you pull the choke, crank it back to life, and I have to idle at full choke. Can't touch the throttle or it dies. Eventually after it idles at full choke for a while you can twist the throttle, get some response and ride off. Sometimes it has the issue again later on in the day, sometimes it doesn't. Always runs great first half of my day, can make the 15 mile ride to work flawlessly and lunch break is fine. It's always later in the day. Im stumped. Kawasaki dealer went through carbs completely 6 months ago, I did plugs, wires, boots, 500 miles ago and issue hasn't gotten better. Bike has 10k on it. Thanks

Welcome, check the vent in the gas cap and the petcock strainers.
Steve

Are you using an inline fuel filter? If it has a paper filter media or was designed for a pressurized system, it may cause fuel starvation.
A good filter designed for a gravity feed system is a really good idea, but the wrong filter will give you headaches.

Wow people respond quick on here! But i will pull the tank off tonight and check the strainer attached to the fuel petcock, that is the only fuel filter I am running. However I will say it is brand new oem (it's so awesome kawasaki can still sell me brand new oem parts for a 32 year old bike) and it's about 6 months old. Same as the gas cap, that is brand new oem kawi replaced 6 months ago, but I will check both. Problem is so hard to diagnose since it is so intermittent, I can park the bike running like crap and it always fires up and runs like a top the next day

I wonder if the carb vents could be clogged up, or if there is a small tear in the vacuum diaphragm in the petcock?

I would verify that the petcock is functioning normally.
Since it's a new oem unit, I'd be surprised if it was defective, but you never know sometimes.
Disconnect the fuel line from the petcock & install long tubing, routed to a suitable container & maybe connect an auxiliary fuel supply to the carburetors if necessary. (a clear or white would be good for examining for debris)
Then check the petcock's function, engine off & engine on.

just an fyi, it's probably the same petcock used on the late model KZ1000-P police bikes.
If it was mfg very long ago, I guess the rubber could have dried out or something. ???

Good point, Martin. I forgot that it is new.

New or not, the diaphragm could still be defective. sometimes you can't tell by looking at it. doh.

Well, I pulled tank off and checked the strainer on the petcock, not dirty by any stretch, but since the diaphragms inside the petcock could possibly be bad I ran it around town on "prime" (since that obviously bypasses the vaccum operated diaphragms) and she's run fine SO FAR. The issues usually pops up when I've been riding it hard, so tonight I will go ride around at the turkey rod run (giant classic car show here in Daytona Beach every thanksgiving) and give her some hell tonight, I'll report back. Thanks for the help fellas

.....The issues usually pops up when I've been riding it hard, so tonight I will go ride around at the turkey rod run (giant classic car show here in Daytona Beach every thanksgiving) and give her some hell tonight, I'll report back. Thanks for the help fellas

Assuming everything is original or old, the problem could be the ignition system.
From personal experience, maybe a weak battery, or bad spark plug wires or poor connections, or defective ignition coils.

Load test the battery. I do a headlight high beam test (engine off). 12.6+ VDC -->> 12.2 VDC.
Try redoing the spark plug wire connections at all points. the ribbed compression boots unscrew from the coils.
Ign coil test. ride the bike at high speeds, then stop & feel them. press hard with your fingers. they should be warm, not hot. don't get burned by the valve cover. Mine were getting very hot, so I installed the green Dyna 3.0 ohm coils from Z1Enterprises.com. The grey 2.2 ohm are a better match for the stock ignition system, but the green ones also work with the Dyna S.

Valve clearances?