TOPIC:

i moved it to the youtube thread.
Please delete this post.

I have a stock air box complete with the boots for the back of the carbs and the spring clamps for 1982 KZ 550 LTD I believe it is the same.

loudhvx wrote: There is also an oil-feed restrictor. Make sure to note which way they go in, and make sure to put them in the correct way.

You may want to read the valve train warning page in my signature. It also has details about cam timing when you get to that point.

Hey sorry for the delayed response fellas; last few days have been busy!

Wanted to thank you for the warning - I'll be cognizant of the direction during the tear down. I'll most certainly read that when I break into the engine. I wish this would have happened later - I'm missing some of the nicest riding weather of the year.

Patton wrote:

rrsmsw9999 wrote: Here is some video of the top end. I have several 550 vids out there. Not an expert but the vids are informative IMHO. R

www.kzrider.com/forum/8-about-the-site/6...ink-to-youtube-video

Good Fortune!

Thanks for the link Patton! Going to watch it tonight!

ahot1968 wrote: I have a stock air box complete with the boots for the back of the carbs and the spring clamps for 1982 KZ 550 LTD I believe it is the same.

I'd definitely be interested - but when I looked at the parts diagrams they look to be different parts numbers. Could you PM a picture of your airbox when you get a chance?

Thanks!

-Matt

Yes I will but I am at work it will be much later

Well, small update - I was able to find a stock airbox and side covers on eBay so I can check that off the list. I've amassed the list of parts I need to order, just need to call the company to ensure I'm getting Kawasaki OEM parts.

Wellllll, I wish I'd have looked on Craigslist before I bought the stock airbox & side covers on eBay...I found a 1983 GPz550 today. It's in very sad shape, but it has several of the parts I need for my bike, to include the airbox & side covers! Argh!

After a bit of a spill on the right side about 15 yrs ago the original owner parked it outside to rot. Eventually someone else got it and decided to take the body panels, carbs, front brakes, rear brake and wheel off, At least most of it was there.



Side panels are in better shape than mine, so I have some extras!


Many hours of work today just to get the bits back on that needed to be back on until I can sell it.



Anyone have any suggestions on the best way to go about selling this bike? I know I could part it out on eBay, but then I'm likely to be left with a frame and a part of an engine. I'm torn between just selling the remaining bits as-is or going all out and breaking it down. It'll be a job for someone to really bring it back.

List it in the for sale forum, and don't forget your location.

Welp,

Admittedly it's been a long time since my last post! Lots of fun life-stuff since last update, baby on the way and what not

Anyway, I've actually made some progress this weekend!

One thing sharp eyes may notice is that I had the parts bike's tank/etc. repainted in original trim and had the fork brace (also from the parts bike) powder coated. Put everything on just to see how it looked prior to surgery.


Finally have it apart. Checked compression before tear down and she's above 150psi on all four.


Things look pretty good in here!


After pulling the head I was able to confirm that Daftrusty was correct; the #1 cylinder oval O-ring had given up the ghost.

So now I'll need to just get that darn base gasket cleaned up a little bit and wait for my valve spring compressor to come in tomorrow so I can replace the valve seals - any special tricks to that?

My only real concern so far are the cylinder walls. They are very smooth to the touch, no ridges or anything, but there seems to be some discoloration. Am considering getting a light honing done...anyone have any insights?




Thanks!

-Matt

Replacing the oil seals is fairly easy. But things to pay attention to...
There are steel seats that the valve springs sit on that can fall out once you have removed the valve seals. (They will only fall out if you turn the head upside down.) Make sure the seats are back in place BEFORE you put the new oil seals on. Other wise you will have to remove the new seal and that will usually will damage it.
Be careful prying the old valve seals off the valve guide. The old seals can be hard to remove and you can easily damage the valve guide if you go prying away at it with pliers and are not gentle.

Since you had pretty good compression before you took the engine apart, normally you could just get away with leaving the bores as is. But you have some weird crusty's and what almost looks like corrosion in the far cylinder.


I would definitly take a ball hone to that (and the other three cylinders) and make sure the dark areas disappear and there is no deep pitting.
A flat stone hone will only touch certain areas and leave other areas shiny since your cylinder bores are "broken in" and no longer perfectly cylindrical, that's why the ball hone is preferred in this instance.
But you can't go nuts and try to hone for hours trying to remove defects in the bores or your old piston rings may never seal properly and will have poor compression.
Let us know how it goes.

Thanks for the quick reply!

So I was just notified that my valve spring compressor should be sitting at my door when I get home. Based on your comments, it seems I should just do one valve seal at a time so that the seats will stay in place?

Is there any special trick to getting the seals off or do you just kind of wiggle them until they pop off? These will actually be the first valve seals I'm replacing - all the old Hondas I've rebuilt to date have not had them.

Regarding the bores - yes I think you are probably right. It was pretty late the other evening when I finished up and snapped those pictures, but I do remember seeing it and thinking it sure looked funny. I put my fingers in there and as far as I can recall it was all smooth, though it doesn't look that way.

I was thinking of buying a ball hone, but I think your suggestion has pushed it over the edge. I need to measure the bores to see what size hone i need.

So should I get new rings too or just a light hone?

Thanks again Daftrusty!

Through trial and error, I found I could use a miniature pair of pliers to reach in and grab the outside of the old valve seal and twist/tug it out and off the sealing lip of the valve guide. But if you use a super kung-fu grip on the pliers you can easily crush the seal and gouge the valve guide itself. Also try not to grab the seal by the hole that the valve goes in, as it is very very easy to accidentally damage the inside sliding surface of the valve guide. That is real real bad. ( I thankfully only did that once and it was on a junk head I was practicing on. )

I bought my ball hone for my 550 and one for my 750 from Amazon as they were the best price for a quality tool that I will rarely use.
As for the new rings.....I would hone the cylinders first and if all come out nice and clean, then I would reuse your old rings since you had good compression numbers. But if you find damage that cannot be honed out, then you will need a good used cylinder block and brand new rings to start fresh with.

Food for thought.