Whew!!

So I'm riding home last night and I hear a kind of jangling,couldnt tell where it was coming from but I thought up front someplace,would come and go as I rode.Sounded like it could be the keys jingling on the handlebars.When I got home I left the bike running to try to follow the sound but it stopped.Left it til this morning,went to start and the starter just spun,no cranking at all.Removed the starter and the gear looked good.Pulled the alternator cover and found the rotor bolt had worked loose.Tightened it up and put the case back on.Before I put the carbs back on I gave the starter a try and it worked.Zipped it up and the same thing,the starter is just spinning again.Opened the alt cover and the bolt was loose again.Then I looked in the book and saw it needed 95 ft lbs,torqued it and hope its okay now.When I first heard the starter spinning I imagined the worst,ground gears and the end to my riding season.Whew!

You might have to use some lock tight on the bolt. You don't want the rotor to spin weld itself to the crank.
Steve

Thought about that,but didnt want to take the bolt out and have everything fall off,lol.The first time I tightened it,I just made it as tight as I could,no where near the 95 ft lbs I later noted in the manual,I have to wonder how effective loc tite would be in a hot engine.If it comes loose again,I'll try some.

Depends what kind you use. I used the blue on my rotor and had to use a torch to get it off. Mine has a key but kept getting loose. That solved it but my backside got tight until I got it off again. :S
Steve

Loctite will be fine in a hot engine, it's what it's designed for.
If you use the lock and seal on the threads it should just need a sharp crack to break the loctite, if you use it on the taper good luck getting it off.
Stud and bearing fit is also blue and is a lot stronger than Lock and Seal, use it sparingly.

Got another problem,not sure how it could be related tho.Could messing with that end of the crank affect the other end of the crank,the timing seems off?When I started the bike this morning it was running sloppy.I checked the pipes and #3 was not as hot as the others.I sprayed a little water on them and #3 was hot,as the water dried instantly but didnt sizzle and vaporize instantly like the others.I warmed it up and rode about 25 miles,came home and checked the plugs and #3 looked fine.It felt okay at highway speeds.This bike doesnt have points,its a transistorized ign.

stokes wrote: .Then I looked in the book and saw it needed 95 ft lbs,torqued it and hope its okay now.When I first heard the starter spinning I imagined the worst,ground gears and the end to my riding season.Whew!

Could you check the 95FT/lb, I could be wrong but that sounds like a lot, especially for a taper fit. I wrote the same comment just last week about my Z1R having the issue a while back. I ended up taking the sump off because the sound appeared to be coming from the opposite side (after I checked the cam chain for slack- thinking one of the guides failed) tilting the bike over to check the clutch damper springs.
Eventually found the rotor was loose, but that was my fault, when I bought a new oil washer for the crank bearing (the one with rubber moulded to it) I didn't realize there are three different widths, needless to say I had the fatter one which prevented the rotor from pushing onto the taper.

Manual says 95 ft lbs,thats what I tightened it to and its been fine.The problem in the #3 cyl was a clogged pilot jet.When I had the carbs off to get at the starter I also cleaned and rebuilt the petcock.I assume there was some varnish in the valve that I loosened and it softened and ended up in that pilot jet

I would have lapped the rotor to the crank nose with grinding paste, then a careful solvent clean, particularly if it has already spun on the crank nose. Even with some damage on the inner taper of the rotor they can still hold, my GPZ1100 B rotor had the usual disintegrating magnet problem and spin damage to the inside taper but was still firmly fixed and took some force to remove ( using the removal puller)

I had a rotor bolt go awol on my GPz750, it made an awful noise as it was slipping. A few months previously I had an m6 stator bolt come out making a mess of the stator. Either a sloppy previous owner or factory tight bolts going loose after 30 years and 45k miles, either way it makes sense to check .

swest wrote: You might have to use some lock tight on the bolt. You don't want the rotor to spin weld itself to the crank.
Steve

That is why I enjoyed 10 hours of rotor removal time.

The bolt never came out completely.It got loose and the rotor spun.I tightened it to the 95 ft lbs and its been good since,couple hundred miles or so.If it gets loose again I'll get some kind of thread lock,but looking thru the manual there are other instances where it specifically says to use lock tite,but not here.

Next time I'll lap the rotor.
Steve