Weird Sound Starting a KZ750 H1

swest wrote: There will be people that will give you bum advice just to see you fail. :dry: If a "biker" tells you to do something, throw it up here, we'll tell you if it's BS or not.
Steve

This is my second Motorcycle but if the first time that i try to do something by my self ( with the help of a few friends that have a little bit of more experience on bikes. )

Youtube videos never tell something about not to start your engine without exhaust. So, every advice will be good ( and will help to not destroy my new KZ )

Thanks Steve.

Ignore the Carb malfuntion.

No, I will not.

If the fuel level is way too high, or if the float valve is not stopping the flow of fuel when it should, you may end up with a crankcase full of gasoline. This is potentially dangerous and can cause catastrophic damage. The fuel may continue to flow even with the engine off. If fuel continues to flow without the engine running, both the fuel petcock (valve on the bottom of the fuel tank) and at least one of the float valves are dirty or have completely failed. This should be tended to before trying to start the engine again.

You need to take an organized, systematic approach.
You really need
-a genuine Kawasaki Factory Service Manual for your specific year and model. They are often for sale on the internet. Somebody around here may have a paper or even electronic copy.
-a set of JIS screwdrivers, or suitably modified Phillips drivers. You can search this forum for information on them.
-a great deal of patience.
-willingness to ask for and take advice from members here.

Before re-installing the intake system, I'd suggest removing the carburetors. Open up the fuel bowls. If you see any dirt, sludge, swamp moss, or small creatures, they will need to be fully disassembled and very carefully cleaned. There are several really small passages that have to be spotless for the carbs to work properly. Once that is done, inspect the intake manifolds (boots). If they have any cracks or are hard, replace them. Install a new fuel filter and check the fuel level in each carburetor using the clear tube method. It is described in the service manual, and in the filebase on this site. Then reinstall and connect the airbox boots and a new air filter. Then check valve clearances and get them all into proper specification. Clean or replace ignition points and be sure they are set to the proper gap. You will be then able to begin diagnosing other problems.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

TexasKZ wrote: Ignore the Carb malfuntion.

No, I will not.

If the fuel level is way too high, or if the float valve is not stopping the flow of fuel when it should, you may end up with a crankcase full of gasoline. This is potentially dangerous and can cause catastrophic damage. The fuel may continue to flow even with the engine off. If fuel continues to flow without the engine running, both the fuel petcock (valve on the bottom of the fuel tank) and at least one of the float valves are dirty or have completely failed. This should be tended to before trying to start the engine again.

You need to take an organized, systematic approach.
You really need
-a genuine Kawasaki Factory Service Manual for your specific year and model. They are often for sale on the internet. Somebody around here may have a paper or even electronic copy.
-a set of JIS screwdrivers, or suitably modified Phillips drivers. You can search this forum for information on them.
-a great deal of patience.
-willingness to ask for and take advice from members here.

Before re-installing the intake system, I'd suggest removing the carburetors. Open up the fuel bowls. If you see any dirt, sludge, swamp moss, or small creatures, they will need to be fully disassembled and very carefully cleaned. There are several really small passages that have to be spotless for the carbs to work properly. Once that is done, inspect the intake manifolds (boots). If they have any cracks or are hard, replace them. Install a new fuel filter and check the fuel level in each carburetor using the clear tube method. It is described in the service manual, and in the filebase on this site. Then reinstall and connect the airbox boots and a new air filter. Then check valve clearances and get them all into proper specification. Clean or replace ignition points and be sure they are set to the proper gap. You will be then able to begin diagnosing other problems.

i Already bought a Carburetor Repair Kits from ebay. ( ) I hope this helps with the cab thing. The needles have some weathering signals. I will replace it tomorrow. The float get stuck in the video that i upload and drops a lot of gas.

I have the service manual. And Yes, i will be asking and uploading the progress of this project.