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Clutch problem
- Simbolick
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18 Aug 2016 01:49 #739081
by Simbolick
Clutch problem was created by Simbolick
Hi guys so I had taken off the sprocket cover for polishing and the clutch cable and so. The pushrod did move but not far like 2/3cm but not all the way out. I had cleaned up everything but it back together and now it will not work. The bike can freely move in to first with out the clutch. After reading everything I have no idea what to do. I also know the adjustment screw is rustler sold to the bolt and I can't free it. But it can spine freely in the casing. Any help would be grate. Thanks.
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- Street Fighter LTD
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- TURBO, Its Better to be Blown than Injected
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18 Aug 2016 05:25 #739097
by Street Fighter LTD
Original owner 78 1000 LTD
Mr Turbo Race Kit, MTC 1075 Turbo pistons by PitStop Performance , Falicon Ultra Lite Super Crank, APE everything. Les Holt @ PDM's Billet Goodies . Frame by Chuck Kurzawa @ Logghe Chassis . Deep sump 5qt oil pan. RIP Bill Hahn
Replied by Street Fighter LTD on topic Clutch problem
Including the kind ( Model ) of bike will help along with some pictures
Dave
Dave
Original owner 78 1000 LTD
Mr Turbo Race Kit, MTC 1075 Turbo pistons by PitStop Performance , Falicon Ultra Lite Super Crank, APE everything. Les Holt @ PDM's Billet Goodies . Frame by Chuck Kurzawa @ Logghe Chassis . Deep sump 5qt oil pan. RIP Bill Hahn
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- WABBMW
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- Let The Good Times Roll !
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18 Aug 2016 09:28 #739123
by WABBMW
Bill Baker
Houston, Texas
1982 KZ650 CSR
2008 Yamaha FZ1
2006 Yamaha FZ1
1977 Honda Supersport 750 four (sold)
1984 Honda Nighthawk 650 (sold)
Replied by WABBMW on topic Clutch problem
Since you can shift into first gear, it sounds like the clutch is disengaged, similar to what it does when pulling in on the clutch lever. When you pull in on the clutch lever, it pulls the cable, which rotates a little release mechanism in the cover housing, that pushes on the pushrod, which pushes on the pressure plate to disengage the clutch. The release mechanism is made up of 3 ball bearings that roll up little ramps, acting like a cam, and this pushes the push rod.
When removing the cover or housing, it is very easy for the release mechanism to get out of position. I would guess that the little balls in the device have shifted, so that it extends out too far. This is possibly why the clutch is disengaged, and so much so that it can no longer engage, even when the clutch lever is fully released.
So remove the cover again, and study the release mechanism. Make sure the 3 balls are all the way back into their slots; everything is centered; etc. Be careful that the cable does not pull everything out of place when you reinstall the cover. If done properly, then the clutch should work like it did before disassembly.
The purpose of the adjustment screw on the side of the cover is to allow just a small amount of clearance between the release mechanism and the push rod. This is necessary so that when you release the clutch, the pushrod will be fully unloaded so the clutch can fully engage. If there is no clearance or negative clearance, it can hold the clutch slightly disengaged, which can lead to slippage and wear out of the clutch plates.
But in order to adjust the screw, the lock nut must be able to be moved on the adjustment screw. soak it in penetrating oil; perhaps try a little bit of heat; etc. to free it up. Maybe it would be best to unscrew it from the housing to do this. Anyway when you do gat it free, then back the lock nut way up, and screw the adjustment screw inward until you feel some resistance. This means that all clearance has been removed. then back the screw up about 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. Hold it from turning while screwing the lock nut up to the housing and tighten.
You may need to re adjust the cable adjuster on the handle bars, so there is 2 or 3 mm of free play. If the clutch discs are in decent condition, then everything should work as designed at this point. Good luck.
When removing the cover or housing, it is very easy for the release mechanism to get out of position. I would guess that the little balls in the device have shifted, so that it extends out too far. This is possibly why the clutch is disengaged, and so much so that it can no longer engage, even when the clutch lever is fully released.
So remove the cover again, and study the release mechanism. Make sure the 3 balls are all the way back into their slots; everything is centered; etc. Be careful that the cable does not pull everything out of place when you reinstall the cover. If done properly, then the clutch should work like it did before disassembly.
The purpose of the adjustment screw on the side of the cover is to allow just a small amount of clearance between the release mechanism and the push rod. This is necessary so that when you release the clutch, the pushrod will be fully unloaded so the clutch can fully engage. If there is no clearance or negative clearance, it can hold the clutch slightly disengaged, which can lead to slippage and wear out of the clutch plates.
But in order to adjust the screw, the lock nut must be able to be moved on the adjustment screw. soak it in penetrating oil; perhaps try a little bit of heat; etc. to free it up. Maybe it would be best to unscrew it from the housing to do this. Anyway when you do gat it free, then back the lock nut way up, and screw the adjustment screw inward until you feel some resistance. This means that all clearance has been removed. then back the screw up about 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. Hold it from turning while screwing the lock nut up to the housing and tighten.
You may need to re adjust the cable adjuster on the handle bars, so there is 2 or 3 mm of free play. If the clutch discs are in decent condition, then everything should work as designed at this point. Good luck.
Bill Baker
Houston, Texas
1982 KZ650 CSR
2008 Yamaha FZ1
2006 Yamaha FZ1
1977 Honda Supersport 750 four (sold)
1984 Honda Nighthawk 650 (sold)
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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18 Aug 2016 10:39 #739134
by SWest
Replied by SWest on topic Clutch problem
I'd take out the screw to work on it.
Steve
Steve
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- Patton
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18 Aug 2016 17:45 - 18 Aug 2016 17:45 #739174
by Patton
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Replied by Patton on topic Clutch problem
Including information about bike year and model is helpful to viewers.
It's easy to put the information in your signature where it shows in all posted messages, past and future.
And the signature may be changed whenever and as often as desired.
If wanting a signature showing information about the bike in posted messages, such as 1983 KZ550-B, it's easy to do.
Here's how:
Good Fortune!
It's easy to put the information in your signature where it shows in all posted messages, past and future.
And the signature may be changed whenever and as often as desired.
If wanting a signature showing information about the bike in posted messages, such as 1983 KZ550-B, it's easy to do.
Here's how:
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Last edit: 18 Aug 2016 17:45 by Patton.
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- Simbolick
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22 Aug 2016 06:17 #739467
by Simbolick
Replied by Simbolick on topic Clutch problem
Dude thanks so much done all of that and works like a dream. Thanks a lot for the help.
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