83 KZ1100 Shaft Clutch slipping

My son tells me the clutch on the KZ1100 with 30k miles is starting to slip more and more. When I first got it, 2k miles ago, I did notice a slight slip in the top end of the torque range in 3rd or 4th gear but everywhere else it seemed fine. Now he says he can cruise at highway speed 5th gear and twist the throttle and it will slip.

I haven't dug into it yet. I guess I'm asking for usual problems with these miles. I'm thinking at the least new clutch springs but since I'm that far into it maybe the friction plates as well. The cable adjusters are no where near the end of their limit but the only way to tell is to take the clutch pack apart and measure them.

Thoughhts?

What oil do you use in the bike? Ed

Should have mentioned that I only use Rotella 15w40 in my wet clutch bikes. Not syn or syn blend...Straight dino oil.

They don't sell Rotilla in quarts here anymore. Had to buy a gallon for 1/8 of a quart.
Steve

All I buy is gallon jugs so not a problem for me. One question about the clutch. I see on the parts fiche there are two different springs in the clutch assembly. One type uses 12 for something called dampener. The other is the normal 6 on the pressure plate. I was just going to change the ones on the pressure plate. Do the dampener springs usually wear out as well and should be replaced as a set?

Since all those springs are likely the same age, I'd be inclined to replace them all while it is apart.

TexasKZ wrote: Since all those springs are likely the same age, I'd be inclined to replace them all while it is apart.

I never have replaced any damper springs. Only pressure plate springs.

Mine aren't replaceable.
Steve

swest wrote: Mine aren't replaceable.
Steve

Most are not! It's a prebuilt unit, if we are talking about this:

I think I'll order new PP springs and when I get it apart check the friction plates. With 30k miles I should be about 1/2 way through the friction material. I'm working on a budget here and don't want to spend needlessly. My son suggested I sell this one and pick up something newer. I told him if he wants something newer, he can buy it himself!

jdvorchak wrote: I think I'll order new PP springs and when I get it apart check the friction plates. With 30k miles I should be about 1/2 way through the friction material. I'm working on a budget here and don't want to spend needlessly. My son suggested I sell this one and pick up something newer. I told him if he wants something newer, he can buy it himself!

Just my opinion, but I wouldn't let my son or anyone else ride my bike if they don't show it respect....

I remember how badly I abused the '73 Honda CB350 my dad bought for me (with my money, however - my cash, his choice of bike) when I actually wanted a newer 500cc+ bike like a GPz550. It broke constantly until I finally got parental permission to sell it and buy something else...something I actually wanted.

Replace the clutch springs with aftermarket or stock ones, sure. My recommendation with KZ1000/ 1100 is to use new stock clutch plates only, unless you are racing.

Rotella T 15W40 is Diesel engine oil; I've never thought of using it in a bike engine before....is it JASO Ma equivalent or something?

I've been running Rotella T 15w40 for years in all kinds of Metric bikes with no ill effects. Lots of people use it as well and are happy. Google search on Rotella T jaso. Yes it's a diesel oil but they use a wet clutch so no friction modifiers.:



Quote:
We recently ran the JASO MA friction test on Rotella T with Triple
Protection 15W-40, Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 (CI-4) and our soon to be
introduced (within the next 2 months) Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 CJ-4.
All three oils passed the wet clutch friction test. Rotella T Synthetic
5W-40 (CI-4) has more than 1.2% ash (JASO MA spec limit) so it can not
be classified as JASO MA. However, Rotella T with Triple Protection
15W-40 and our soon to be introduced Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 CJ-4 do
meet JASO MA."

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Richard Moore
Staff Engineer
Shell Global Solutions (US) Inc.
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