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Change after shimming
- Mapletree
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- Bozo
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First Permanent ride the Z1R since Dec1977 (220,000km) as of June 2015
Second permanent bike 1989 FJ1200 dyno'd 140RWH, great bike.
Third ride is now the Frankenstein 1981 GPZ1100B1, 1983 fully recon motor fitted LOVE THIS BIKE
Forth my work bike FJ1200 1989 (same type as FJ above)
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- Mapletree
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- Kray-Z
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Very odd that 5 out of 8 valves had zero clearance at only 12K miles....especially if you never noticed a problem before. Even weirder is that a valve adjustment has caused it to start burning oil.
Maybe check the air filter and air box, and crankcase vent / breather for blockage. Also, when checking valve clearances, I make sure to push the valve lifter (bucket) down and insert the minimum feeler gauge, then release and check if the gauge can slide easily or is tight. Why that way? Because sometimes the lifter isn't down all the way (held to the bore or cam base circle by oil film suction or just stuck in the bore slightly). Really - I've had valves that first appeared like they were too tight actually measure well within specification after making sure the bucket was down properly.
If you do end up pulling the head off for only new valve stem seals, don't forget to check for valve seat leaks using the old solvent in the combustion chamber trick before re-installing the head...
2-04 R1, 81 CSR1000, 81 LTD1000, 2-83 GPz1100, 3-79CBX, 81 CBX, 3-XS650, 84 Venture, +parts
Quote "speed costs money...how fast do you want to go?" (Which Z movie?)
Universal formula for how many motorcycles one should own = n + 1, where n is how many motorcycles you own right now....
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- Mapletree
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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- bountyhunter
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because nobody ever checked them.Mapletree wrote: It is a 1983, with just under 12k miles, it is my suspicion that the shims where never changed, but I also question why i had absolutely no clearance on 5 of the 8 and the other three were nominal.
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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- Kray-Z
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swest wrote: Stand the head on one side and fill the ports with solvent, gas, etc and see if the valves leak.
Steve
Yes, that's about it...spark plugs and valves installed, put the head upside down on a flat surface and fill the combustion chambers completely with solvent (but not something that evaporates quickly - use a high flash point solvent, kerosene or diesel fuel) . Wait an hour and check if the liquid level has dropped to see how much has leaked out, if any. Look for solvent wetting the ports if leaking past the valves. If you can see the level dropping before your eyes, that is a major leak indicative of distorted, bent, or burnt valves.
Note that an untouched used head might have slight carbon or hard deposits build up on the valve faces and seats that will prevent complete valve sealing unless the valves snap closed rapidly as in a running engine - you would see this as a small / slow leak during this test and that could still be o.k.
You should have no leakage on a fresh valve grind / cut if the valves have been properly lapped in.
2-04 R1, 81 CSR1000, 81 LTD1000, 2-83 GPz1100, 3-79CBX, 81 CBX, 3-XS650, 84 Venture, +parts
Quote "speed costs money...how fast do you want to go?" (Which Z movie?)
Universal formula for how many motorcycles one should own = n + 1, where n is how many motorcycles you own right now....
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- bountyhunter
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very unlikely it's the guides, very likely it's seals.Mapletree wrote: It is a 1983, with just under 12k miles, it is my suspicion that the shims where never changed, but I also question why i had absolutely no clearance on 5 of the 8 and the other three were nominal. Anyways, thanks for your response and i agree with you, i am going to order some new seals and change em out, it is the more probable cause. If not we will do the guides next. Again thanks
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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- Bozo
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bountyhunter wrote:
very unlikely it's the guides, very likely it's seals.Mapletree wrote: It is a 1983, with just under 12k miles, it is my suspicion that the shims where never changed, but I also question why i had absolutely no clearance on 5 of the 8 and the other three were nominal. Anyways, thanks for your response and i agree with you, i am going to order some new seals and change em out, it is the more probable cause. If not we will do the guides next. Again thanks
Agree about the seals, as I wrote before they are most likely original, by pushing the valve down the carbon on the valve stem cracking (microscopic) the hardened seals.
First Permanent ride the Z1R since Dec1977 (220,000km) as of June 2015
Second permanent bike 1989 FJ1200 dyno'd 140RWH, great bike.
Third ride is now the Frankenstein 1981 GPZ1100B1, 1983 fully recon motor fitted LOVE THIS BIKE
Forth my work bike FJ1200 1989 (same type as FJ above)
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- zukdave
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1980 KZ650 F1
ZX750A1 motor.
Wiseco 810cc kit.
Zukiworks racing ported head.
VM 29 smooth bore's.
Dyna 2000 Ign. w/Dyna mini coil's
APE cylinder stud's and nut's.
APE valve spring's.
APE Track King clutch.
V/H KZ1000 sidewinder.
3.5x18 laced to a KZ1000 disk hub.
150/60/18 Shinko 006 Podium.
63" wheel base.
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- Bozo
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zukdave wrote: Carbon can not build up above the seal's on the stem's.
Correct, my bad.
First Permanent ride the Z1R since Dec1977 (220,000km) as of June 2015
Second permanent bike 1989 FJ1200 dyno'd 140RWH, great bike.
Third ride is now the Frankenstein 1981 GPZ1100B1, 1983 fully recon motor fitted LOVE THIS BIKE
Forth my work bike FJ1200 1989 (same type as FJ above)
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