Clutch cable reassembly 1983 Kz 550 ltd C3/C4

In an attempt to test alternator (Following Kawasaki service manual Instructions) I was to remove shift lever, foot peg and clutch cover.
In doing this, I inadvertently took my clutch cable out of adjustment. Come to find out the spring inside the clutch cover was broken. I'm using the spring off a '80 KZ 750 LTD as a replacement. I tried briefly to reassemble and see what was what.

The issue is I had either no tension at all on the clutch lever or WAY too much. Also, when I started the bike it made a horrible metal on metal noise like something was spinning out of alignment. The idiot light for neutral also would not turn off, even though it felt as if I was shifting into first when I went to test the clutch. After shifting into what I believe to be first, I would release the clutch and the light would still say neutral. The bike would not grab a gear. I'm guessing this is signifying that I put the shift lever on wrong, further ruined the clutch or something else.

Has anyone experienced this?

As if this wasn't obvious enough - I am a complete newbie to Bikes. The bike has a charging system problem and wont hold a charge in the battery. For this, The manual suggested I run various tests to see what is faulty. wiring is okay, battery is new, Regulator/ rectifier is toast, and was going to test alternator next. This is the chain of events that lead me to where I am.

Any input is appreciated

It's almost impossible to install the shift lever wrong. When installing the clutch cable & cover, make sure the clutch release mechanism is oriented correctly & that the cable remains seated when the cover is installed. a cotter pin helps the cable end stay in place. On some (all?) 550s the clutch release adjusting screw should be turned counterclockwise first until hard to turn, then clockwise 1/4 turn. it's kinda counter-intuitive. some manuals are ambiguous about the direction. If it doesn't seem to go in gear, try spinning the rear wheel then shift.

I agree with Martin. Make sure the actuator is assembled correctly and greased. The neutral wire might be pinched to the case. I've done that. Take the cover off and recheck your work.
Steve

Ah. For future use: the three yellow wires for the alternator are also accessible at the regulator/rectifier... usually mounted under the battery.

If you follow my signature links, I have an image posted for adjusting the type of actuator you have on your 1983 C4. (The 83 model was a C4 model, but it may have been built in 1982.)

Martin: Some of the 1979 (500) and 1980 models were different. They had the screw type. Also, on the ball-pocket type, I think it's supposed to be 1/2 turn clockwise after tightening counter-clockwise.

Ball and pocket ? Are you talking about tightening up the slack in the actual clutch lever ? i do need to do that too, but my main concern was adjusting the couch cable because it had no tension haha.

No, the actuator adjustment on the sprocket cover. IF you follow the link in my sig, there will be a link to a drawing showing how it works.

If the actuator is out of position, the clutch won't work. You really do need a manual.
Steve

I have the Kawasaki service manual, following its directions for an alternator test is what got me into this mess to begin with.

I misunderstood, there is a lot of different lingo going around and got me confused. I.e. Sprocket cover/ clutch cover. A lot of information here I'm trying to make heads or tails of. I followed your link and I thought it was two drawings of the clutch lever mechanism on the handle bars. I see now that the top colored illustration on your clutch adjustment link is the one located on the clutch cover plate.

I'm new to motorcycles and am learning as I go.

I reassembled last night and it seems a lot better. just too much tension now. I'll see if I can fine tune it using your link after work. Thanks guys!

Clutch cover, right hand side. Sprocket cover, left hand side. Is the cable new?
Steve

swest wrote: Clutch cover, right hand side. Sprocket cover, left hand side. Is the cable new?
Steve

What Steve is pointing out, just for clarity, is that the actual clutch, and its cover, are on the right side of the bike, where the oil filler is. The work you are doing for the alternator wires, and the clutch actuator assembly, is on the left side of the bike. That cover is called the sprocket cover. There is a pushrod that goes through the motor to connect the clutch actuator to the clutch. The drawing I posted shows the ball-ramp style actuator, which is on the sprocket cover, and how it pushes on the pushrod.

The later Zx550 motors, which use the same engine case assembly, and maybe even some of the later Kz550's, have the clutch actuator mounted on the top of the actual clutch cover, on the right side of the motor. (In which case, taking the sprocket cover off to work on the alternator wires would not have affected the clutch.)

Ah, Okay - It's all making sense now. I recognize the push rod for sure.

I saw a video where a guy flipped his push rod 180° because the clutch actuator had kinda marred it up.

I didn't flip mine, seemed like putting a marred push rod into the actual engine would not be ideal. Any thoughts?

LesbianSeagull wrote: I saw a video where a guy flipped his push rod 180° because the clutch actuator had kinda marred it up.

I didn't flip mine, seemed like putting a marred push rod into the actual engine would not be ideal. Any thoughts?

I think you did the right thing. The marred end should meet with the actuator, since that is the dirty end. The other end pushes on a smooth ball bearing. That end should be smooth. The ball bearing is used as the interface between the spinning clutch mechanism and the non-spinning pushrod. So the ball bearing may or may not be spinning, but the clean/smooth end of the pushrod should be the end contacting the bearing.

BTW, in case you've heard rumors or warnings, the ball bearing can't fall out of the sprocket cover side. It can only come out of the clutch side after the pressure plate is removed, so no worries when you are working on the sprocket side.