Tachometer Drive Block Off

Has anyone used this piece? Does it require the removal of the internal drive mechanism, or once the cable is removed does it just go over the hole?
www.z1enterprises.com/product/PM81-2290
It says it works on KZ550A, which is what I have. I'm probably switching to an electronic Tach.
Any other solutions I should be looking at?

You pull the old one out with the drive gear and put it in.
Steve

Once the cable is removed, you can just pull the drive gear out?
I read there is a washer inside that would require taking the side cover off?

swest wrote: You pull the old one out with the drive gear and put it in.
Steve

Does yours look like that?
Steve

I don't know, haven't removed it yet.

swest wrote: Does yours look like that?
Steve

That piece replaces the tach drive gear which is installed after the cam so I would install this the same way. Disconnect the drive cable, remove the one allen head bolt on the head and the tach gear should pull out.

We just filled the old one with alumalloy/alumaweld (after thoroughly sanding/cleaning the inside).
kz550a.blogspot.com/2015/07/tachometer-drive-block-off.html

Like The_Proletariat said, it's just one allen to get it out. Get new orings if you can.

The rest of his blog:
kz550a.blogspot.com/

That looks great, so that part detaches from the drive assembly?

Ironically I was out for a ride today and my stock tach stopped working!? Osmosis I suppose.

loudhvx wrote: We just filled the old one with alumalloy/alumaweld (after thoroughly sanding/cleaning the inside).
kz550a.blogspot.com/2015/07/tachometer-drive-block-off.html

Like The_Proletariat said, it's just one allen to get it out. Get new orings if you can.

The rest of his blog:
kz550a.blogspot.com/

Yes, you just unscrew the bolt holding the retainer plates (there's a retaining plate, and a locking plate to stop the bushing from rotating), and the bushing pulls out with the tach gear. You pull the gear out of the bushing. Then remove the oring, degrease thoroughly in acetone or some other super light solvent, then sand the inside to scratch it up, then use a propane (not mapp) torch to fill the bowl with alumalloy/alumaweld. We may have used the tach gear, in a vice, to hold it steady and prevent the alumaweld from flowing all the way through. We had the materials, so it was much cheaper than the plug from Z1-Enterprises. But that billet piece does look really cool, and appears to use two orings for a better seal.

Click on my links to get a manual in case you don't have one. The tach drive should be mentioned in at least one of the manuals.