No more Metal !

Just got back from another 70 mile ride on my 77' KZ1000A that I have brought back to life again. No problems on the ride. Now I have around 300 miles on the bike since being made operable again.

When I originally brought this bike home, I pulled the drain plug. With the Old Black oil that was in the bike, there were a lot of metal shavings as with a couple of larger metal pieces ? Suspected the worse but proceeded on with the project. Replaced the old oil with new and continued putting this bike back together . After I got bike was running it appeared to have starter clutch noise during start-up with the electric starter which resulted in the starter/clutch assembly and rotor being severely cracked and fragmented. So maybe these were the metal shaving I saw originally :whistle:

So after this latest ride, I decided to change the oil again and see if I had any metal shavings since I've been riding the bike for a while. Pulled the drain plug and examined the oil pan and am happy to report No Metal Shavings found Hopefully that was it.

Incidentally, I'm using Rosella T oil with the new oil change as recommended.

Good job.
Steve

Thanks Steve

Next 2 things on the List :

1. Check if the fuel petcock is not totally shutting off fuel when turned off. Or check the float level Again ? Carbs. still puking out a little fuel out the float bowl overflow tubes when the bike sits for a few days even while on the center stand ? Maybe the float seats need to be changed out ?

2. Thought about checking the Head Torque valve? Maybe those low compression #'s I got earlier with the compression gauge could possibly be part of that ?

Look closely at the floats that the tangs aren't at too much an angle. That could make the needles cock to the side and not seal correctly.
Steve

Interesting, didn't think about that ? :whistle:

Steve, Do you think it is a good idea to check and re-torque the head bolts and nuts ? Or is it better just leave it alone since it probably has never been checked since new and re-torquing it may cause more harm than good ?

Just grasping at straws since I had such a low compression test reading at all of the cylinder ? :huh: Even though I think this bike runs fairly decent with what I have to work with, I wonder how much better it would run if the compression #'s were above the service limit ? :whistle:

Fresh rebuild? Valves adjusted?
Steve

Steve, This motor is Definitely not a fresh rebuild. Looking at it and the condition it was in when I first purchased it, ridden hard and put away after a lot of abuse. Don't even now if the 26,000 miles plus are even the right miles ?

So I'm assuming that re-torquing the heads in this old, aged motor would be a waste of time ?

Also, will look at the valve adjustment again. As it said earlier in Posts they did check out okay prior in clearance measurement but maybe something has changed ?

I wouldn't disturb the old gaskets.
Steve

Do you think it is a good idea to check and re-torque the head bolts and nuts ? Or is it better just leave it alone since it probably has never been checked since new and re-torquing it may cause more harm than good ?

I check / retourque all my heads every few years, do it cold in several stages with a decent tourque wrench and according to the tightening sequence in the manual. Loose studs is a major cause of gasket failure imo.