Valve Shim Tools ?

Like to re-check my valve clearances on my 77' KZ1000A. Running pretty decent, but low compression #'s. Want to place an order for shims, valve cover gasket, and shim tool with Z1 Ent.

What "tools" are you guys using to change out the shims? Don't really want to use the so called "bat wing" and am not sure on the tie-wraps. So if I have to purchase a little more expensive tool to start with, that would be okay.

I hate the "bat wing." just used it this morning. I had the $50 clamp tool until it was stolen with the rest of my tools. I'll bet the creap didn't even know what is was. Bet he got a bag for them. They have them and $50 is worth it.
Steve

I also use the "bat wing" It's easy to use and easy to screw things up. If using the "bat wing" once the valve is held open be sure to rotate the cam lobe away from the tool. This requires turning the motor backwards for short distances. There are actually cast in "notches” for the Bat wing tool to fit in and the set screw to seat. Once figured out works well. I also have a pick to pick the shim so the magnet can pull the shim off the bucket. Oil and stiction are sometimes a lot of fun.

Bat-wing is certainly cheaper but lean towards the OEM style. Will just have to learn how to use it?

You turn the crank so the valve is lifted, then back it up enough to get the shim out. Got to be careful. You can bend a valve if not done right.
Steve

New Guys and Old Guys! This has been disgusted before many times!
#1 do you plan on keeping your Kaw for awhile?
#2 are you a cheapskate?
#3 can you put a price $$$ tag on a finger tip?

Buy the real tool! I did in 1977 from Kawasaki Dealer, I wish it was $49.
Mine works fine, but I wore the tip out slightly.

This is a 5 year old picture :silly: :silly:

That little pry tool is a PITA. Broke too many gaskets with it slipping. I made one out of a screw driver years ago and like the one in the pic. I had a spoon handle for a wedge. Looked for them this morning. No can find. I'll come across them when I'm not looking.
Steve

zip tie in the spark plug hole to the valve open is hands down easy. The valves are easy to see open and the tie bent over is plenty strong enough and will not mar the valve seat. Turn the crank to get to each shim. Open valve, place ziptie, rotate carnk a hair to create space between the cam lobe and shim and remove shim. Had three shims out and miced in 10 minutes. Very easy, no backing up the cam lobe, nothing to damage. R

rrsmsw9999 wrote: zip tie in the spark plug hole to the valve open is hands down easy. The valves are easy to see open and the tie bent over is plenty strong enough and will not mar the valve seat. Turn the crank to get to each shim. Open valve, place ziptie, rotate carnk a hair to create space between the cam lobe and shim and remove shim. Had three shims out and miced in 10 minutes. Very easy, no backing up the cam lobe, nothing to damage. R

Now that's using your noodle!!! This kind of logic will take a guy far!

Les Holt

les holt wrote:

rrsmsw9999 wrote: zip tie in the spark plug hole to the valve open is hands down easy. The valves are easy to see open and the tie bent over is plenty strong enough and will not mar the valve seat. Turn the crank to get to each shim. Open valve, place ziptie, rotate carnk a hair to create space between the cam lobe and shim and remove shim. Had three shims out and miced in 10 minutes. Very easy, no backing up the cam lobe, nothing to damage. R

Now that's using your noodle!!! This kind of logic will take a guy far!

Les Holt

I used that tywrap method as well, works great, wish it worked on the 750 I have to do next.....

Just curious why doesn't it?

Shim under the bucket instead if on top of the bucket. The cam has to come off to make changes.