!982 KZ1100 Cam Chain Slack ?

Hello all. I have a 1982 KZ1100 I am installing the cam chain . All timing marks line up when I turn the crank clockwise. But when I turn the crank counter clockwise I get slack in the chain between the cams. I noticed this while checking the valve clearances. Is there supossed to be slack in the chain while rotating the cams counterclockwise? I installed the tensioner the way the manual says to do. The manual says the pushrod on the tensioner is supposed to stick out 7.5mm and it is flush. I dont know if the chain is beyond serice limit or what. Any help appreciated.

Don't turn it backwards. Is there a guide in the cover? If so, that will take up the slack and you install the adjuster last.
Steve

While changing the shims you have to turn it counterclockwise... When i turn it clockwise all timing marks are lined up. I thought the chain should be tight during the whole proccess.

jumbulias wrote: While changing the shims you have to turn it counterclockwise... When i turn it clockwise all timing marks are lined up. I thought the chain should be tight during the whole proccess.

What shim change system requires that the crank be rotated backward to remove shims?
I use an improvised pry bar and bat-wing shaped hold-down/retainer for the shim bucket. Once that retainer is inserted between the cam (cast surface) and bucket lip, there is absolutely no movement of any engine component while getting one shim out or putting another back in. If anything were to move in the process, something would get damaged.

When using the kawasaki Tool . you have to go counterclockwise

Seems to me, when rotating the crank counter-clockwise, the cam-chain tension switches from the exhaust to the intake cam, so there is slack in the chain at the front of the motor. Perhaps valve spring tension against the cam lobes are forcing the exhaust cam to rotate backward since there is no-longer the chain tension keeping it from moving that direction.

That makes sense. Thanks for the help . Thought the chain might be stretched since the pushrod on the chain tensioner is flush, instead of 7.5mm out ,which the manual states

jumbulias wrote: That makes sense. Thanks for the help . Thought the chain might be stretched since the pushrod on the chain tensioner is flush, instead of 7.5mm out ,which the manual states

A little history on your bike would help, along with a brief description of what you are currently doing with the motor. Are you simply adjusting valve lash, or is the project a bit more involved than that?

Just put in new pistons ,rings .Keihin CR33 carbs, dyna ignition and coils Had no Compression , so I checked valve clearance and had none. So I adjusted all the valves to spec. It has alot of compression know. Did not know if I should add a manual chain tensioner or not. The automatic tensioner push rod stop is supposed to stick out 7.5mm when chain is adjusted properly. the push stop rod is flush with body of tensioner. All Timing marks are exact dead on.Thought chain might be stretched. Have not measured it yet. The bike runs very well , It has massive power. Instant throttle response. This 7.5mm measurement has got me puzzled.

I think the tip on mine protruded about 1/8" with the cam cover installed, and before threading on the adjuster-cap with the spring. That was several years ago, when I first had the top end apart. The rear chain guide had been badly disfigured by the chain adjuster shaft, apparently from the tremendous amount of pressure applied by the stock adjustment system, and it was replaced.
I've had it apart a couple times since then, and have not seen that kind of wear repeated since the manual chain adjuster was installed.

Never saw anything to turn counter clockwise,but I have not used the shim tool. Just to be thorough your cam marks should be on the right side (brake pedal) of the bike. 180 out will cause a fire. R