Painfull Lessons of Camshaft work Part Deux

My first post was getting too far down the board so I figured Part Deux was in order:

rrsmsw9999: suggested (thank you) removing the camshafts to change shims during a valve adjustment. I like that idea but on my KZ1000P there is the chain tensioner challenge.
If it were just removing the caps and cams to do the shims that wouldn't be bad but on the KZ1000P the chain tensioner is under the intake manifold. You can get a ratchet on the lower chanin tensioner bolt but the upper bolt no chance of a socket and most open end and closed end 10 mm wrenches don't have clearance- won't even go on. Fortunately I have a cheap (thin-headed) clossed end 10 mm that just make's it on there - and then it is a third of a turn a crank and plenty of scrapes - no room to turn by fingers. This is the kind of job that after two minutes even a patient mechanic wants to hammer something.

This last cam-cap bolt, stripped thread, adjustment session, I had the chain tensioner off and on 3 times. I almost considered removing the carbs (almost.)

Please tell me there is a cable tie trick for this.

You don't have to remove the tensioner, just remove the cap, spring, and make sure the wedge isn't wedged in too tight. This will allow the plunger to move in and out easily so you can install the cams. After everything is tightened back down reinstall the spring and cap.

And extra wear and tear on the cap bolts and threads. Use the tool. :dry:
Steve

+1. The tensioner body does not have to be removed if you have a crosswedge style. Now that I thought on it my e model has a lock setting to load it in and the whole thing comes off and on. R

Hi Thanks for this,

Even with the locking crosspiece and spring removed, the chain tensioner has its own spring. From what I read you are saying that after removing the crosspiece there is enough give in the main tensioner spring to repace the cams (correctly aligned with the chain) and get the caps in place.

That will save me a ton of hassle - have you done this a few times?

keconomos@sbcglobal.net wrote: Hi Thanks for this,

Even with the locking crosspiece and spring removed, the chain tensioner has its own spring. From what I read you are saying that after removing the crosspiece there is enough give in the main tensioner spring to repace the cams (correctly aligned with the chain) and get the caps in place.

That will save me a ton of hassle - have you done this a few times?

Yes, the main spring has enough give to allow the cams to be easily installed. I believe the design of the spring and cap was done specifically for this reason.

Once you have the cams installed and the cam caps tightened down, you can them reinstall the tensioner crosswedge spring and cap. Don't tighten down the cap overly tight though. At this point you should turn over the engine with a wrench and double check your camshaft alignment and the shim clearances. Once you are happy that everything is hunky dory then remove the tensioner cap and spring once more and install the valve cover. Tighten all the screws and then as the last step, reinstall the spring and cap once more and torque the cap.

Thanks Ed, If I knew then what I know now

Kirk