What did I do wrong?

I replaced everything but the top idler, which came off of a bike with about 14k on it. Unfortunately I'm on a bit of a budget and this is my only vehicle.

Can you get a better pic level with the head looking at the exhaust sprocket? I try to make the odd pim on the arrow so the even ones go to the 28. Easier to count and be sure that way. It will work the way you have it though if right.
Steve

This is the closest I can get it without standing one of the other lobes on end. The right and left side loves are opposed to one another here.

In that first pic, is it on the T mark?
Steve

Looks one tooth off if on the T mark.
Steve

Okay, I moved it forward one tooth, and put the intake at 28. Now I'll put tell caps back on and see how it looks. I really appreciate the help.

Here it is after moving one tooth. I think you were right, the lobes are perfectly in line.

Ship it. :woohoo:
Steve

Be sure when you adjust the tensioner, take it till you feel resistance then back it off 1/8 turn. Better a little loose then too tight.
Steve

No kidding. The last thing I want is another broken guide. That's what got me here in the first place. Is there any chance I could have messed up a valve by having the timing a tooth or two off and rotating the crank?

Yes.
Steve

Usually one tooth out won't mean valve to piston contact, they will run like that.
I've had plenty of zeds in the workshop that have been run a tooth out.
It's the first thing I look at when the owner says the bike runs a bit flat after top end work.
Two teeth off is risking a bent valve but it depends whether it's advanced or retarded.
If you suspect a bent valve after the bike is back together put the cylinder at TDC with both valves closed.
Pull the spark plug and do a leak down test .
Lightly pressurise the cylinder with compressed air and if a valve is leaking you will hear it hissing from either the carb or exhaust.