Oil pouring from engine top

jdvorchak wrote: ......
Tip on removing those bolts. First starting in the middle just loosen each bolt 1/2 turn in a star pattern from the center outward. Not that anything would be hurt if you don't but its good practice to always remove and replace a multi fastener cover like that. Factory Service Manual (FSM) outlines the correct pattern to use when re-tightening.

Another handy tip I found on youtube: for making it easier to remove the gasket or to preserve the gasket, remove all of the bolts except the ones on the ends --- loosen the end bolts a couple of mms, then tap the valve cover loose, then loosen the end bolts some more so that you can lift up the valve cover so that the gasket can be pried off. Pry the gasket off the easiest surface first, then after removing the valve cover, pry the gasket off the other surface.

It's hard to see but it looks like RTV was used instead of a real cam cover gasket. It looks like there is RTV squeezing out of the side. Once the cover is off we will know for sure.
Jim

Also looks like the exhaust pipe gaskets are blown. Maybe just loose.

JimB wrote: It's hard to see but it looks like RTV was used instead of a real cam cover gasket. It looks like there is RTV squeezing out of the side. Once the cover is off we will know for sure.
Jim

I've taken the cover off, and the area the leak was only had some blue shit in it no gasket , the rest of the gasket was shot too, I've ordered one an some jb weld

Yeah true, they are loose, the bolts are tight so gaskets must be shot or missing

Hiya
I thought I'd drop the cam cover off an started cleaning the old gasket off while waiting for the new one to arrive.
Here's a few pics as requested.

More pics

That broken screw boss could prove problematic. Hope the rest of the threads are enough for you to tighten the cover down reasonably well.

Nessism wrote: That broken screw boss could prove problematic. Hope the rest of the threads are enough for you to tighten the cover down reasonably well.

Fingers crossed that one might be ok even without repair. First time I checked valves I found one of those stripped and the bolt just sitting there. No oil leaks even with a dry gasket. I eventually put in helicoil years later but the cover never leaked despite valve checks at the specified service intervals. I think in total there are 16, maybe 14 valve cover bolts so one loose one was not a problem.

Could someone paste a link for the valve timing check/ procedures please, it's electronic ignition,

Here's a site w a pdf manual & wiring diagrams. mbsween. bike-night. KZ750L3 . Scroll down & click "The Bible" link.
The manual is kinda poorly scanned, but it's better than nothing --- the bottom is lopped off of some of the pages.
Note: not applicable for the 750E, but some of the wiring diagrams are mislabeled in the links: --- the 1981 Ltd is an H2,
the 82 is an H3, & the 83 is an H4.

KZ650 Kawasaki service manual. In case some of the 750-4 pdf valve info is missing or messed up.
The following site has the 1981 KZ650 pdf in the Files section. jarlef z650 .
The valve clearance procedure is probably the same as the 750E. ???

Thanks martin csr, that was a really good link. Really interesting too,
Hope mine looks half as good as that bike when I'm finished haha