'83 1100 shaft shift detent pawl access

Hi, as the title says, I need to access the shift drum detent pawl on my 1100 shaft drive. it also has an oil leak from in there somewhere that i would like to fix, oil drips down onto the side stand mount area. What is involved in removing the shaft bevel drive to gain access to the end of the shift drum and drum detent? Thanks.

You will need a few hours of dedicated effort, and patience. If the unit has not been removed before, much time will be spent very-carefully scraping off the old gasket material, and that is after the housing is off. It's a tough/confined area to work, and you will likely be laying on your side most of the time. Have a tray under the engine to catch oil when the gasket is broke loose, and remember that the drive-shaft must be disconnected before the housing can be removed, which can be a project all by itself.

The FSM gives excellent instructions, and should be consulted prior to beginning to understand the process step by step. Assembly is the reverse process. The nice part when you are done...it will be easier next time.

While at it, make sure to pull out and examine the clutch push rod, and replace it if worn. My clutch rod broke off inside the bevel case after I had previously removed the case to replace the leaking gasket. Had I thought of it the first time, I could have saved myself hours of down time a few months later, when I could have been riding.

Once you have the case removed, this is what the system looks like behind it:

Thank you for the detailed reply. Sounds about like I thought it would be, not a simple thing to do. So do you pull the driveshaft out the back first? Does this mean removing the rear wheel then the final drive first, then sliding the driveshaft out?
I have a Yamaha Virago and that's about how you do that one, except the engine bevel drive is part of the cases, no adapted part from a chain drive bike.

Do you have a manual?
Steve

Yes I have a manual, but I come here for advice from people with insight and direct knowledge, something you usually don't get from a manual.

DGA wrote: Thank you for the detailed reply. Sounds about like I thought it would be, not a simple thing to do. So do you pull the driveshaft out the back first? Does this mean removing the rear wheel then the final drive first, then sliding the driveshaft out?
I have a Yamaha Virago and that's about how you do that one, except the engine bevel drive is part of the cases, no adapted part from a chain drive bike.

Your explanation is essentially how the Kawasaki KZ1100 manual describes the process. Consider that it would be impossible to accomplish without having a means to jack up/support the bike, for which the center-stand serves very well. A pin (under spring pressure) must be depressed in order to release the front drive shaft yoke from the front case shaft.. It also has to align exactly during reassembly, which is the tough part.

DGA wrote: Yes I have a manual, but I come here for advice from people with insight and direct knowledge, something you usually don't get from a manual.

Great point! Not sure haw, but I wound up with three of them. :huh:

What makes you think the shifting detent is the problem?
Steve

The shift drum moves, obviously. It engages gears. But this is one of the notchiest gearboxes I have ever had the displeasure to ride with. You practically have to hurt your foot to make sure it gets the next gear. if I am really slow and deliberate with the shifts then all is ok. But it sucks enough that it makes me want to sell the bike. My plan is to inspect the shift detent roller and if it does not have notches worn in it or the shift drum pins are in good shape then I will make a larger detent roller with a ball bearing, Might also soften the detent spring pressure a little (note I said a little). Only thing I won't know is if the shift drum and fork pins are worn, in that case it's dig further into the motor than I care to, but those problems still should not make it notchy, only jump out of or not stay in gears.

Try relaxing the adjustments on the cable, top and middle. Adjust the clutch at the cover by turning in, then backing out 1/8 turn. Readjust the cable. That should cure it. If you have the cover off, grease the clutch ramp. Kawasaki's have a positive gear select. You should hear a clunk each time it goes into gear.
Steve

Please Steve, i had to start a new thread after my last one was taken over by guys who believe I have clutch problems. Please trust my mechanical abilities and believe me, this is NOT a clutch problem. I can shift gears without the clutch and it's no different.

It was just a suggestion. There is a detent spring and plunger inside the case and a locator lock under the cover.
Steve