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Why did this happen, 440 rods.
- dom2570
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Long Story
I picked up a kz440 several months ago. The PO couldn't get it running, so I picked it up for next to nothing.
That day I got it running, he had installed a float bowl upside down. :S
(the essentially shut off carb was on the cylinder that went to shit)
I went through the standard routine, new plugs, fresh gas, oil and filter, and the valves adjusted. The bike ran great for a couple hundred miles. Then it went kaput.
I'm guessing that it was a preexisting problem and I just pushed it over the edge. What do you guys think?
The good news is that I already have a new set of rods and they look much better.
Whip it like a mule!
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- dom2570
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Whip it like a mule!
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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Steve
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- jackleberry
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1997 KZ1000P (P16)
2001 KZ1000P (P20)
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- Tyrell Corp
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Not sure about the 440, but most of the forged cranks come in three sizes, and the rods do too. You then select a shell insert which come in three size. Selective assembly allows then to build to precise tolerances whilst allowing for some machining dimension variance.
1980 Gpz550 D1, 1981 GPz550 D1. 1982 GPz750R1. 1983 z1000R R2. all four aces
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- dom2570
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Tyrell thanks for that info, I will have to do a bit more research I guess.
Whip it like a mule!
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- scubaanders
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Will advice you to measure up the crank before considering putting it back together again.
I manage to kill two cranks racing :whistle: :whistle: , one due to overheating, one due loss of oil pressure but they really looked like crap when I opened up the crankcase.
Gpz750R1 1982
Gpz750A1 1983
Gpz1100A2 1984
FZ750 1985
Gpz900R -91
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- Tyler
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You caught it before the bearing got completely tore up, and you may have saved the crank. You have to use some plasiguage when you put that together, and I would do it twice. Once with the crank at TDC and then again with the crank rotated 90° to make damn sure the journal is round and the clearance is ok all the way around.
IS that the rod on the right hand side? May have been from idling on the kick stand with low oil.
If I knew what I was doing all the time life wouldn't be any fun.
'80 KZ650 E 700cc, dyna ignition and coils, frame up restoration, daily driver
'81 KZ1300 A3 full restoration, custom big bore pistons, 1400cc 6 cylinder super bike
"77 KZ650 B1 - Barn Find, work in progeress
"74 Yamaha DT 400 Enduro
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- dom2570
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When I first got the bike I did an oil and filter change. I noticed some metal flakes when I drained the oil. Ran it a few hundred miles, then put seafoam in the crankcase, rode around the block a few times and then did another oil change. Still noticed flakes of metal, but thought it was just gunk getting cleared out.Tyler wrote: To spin the big end bearing on a rod it has to seize to the crank, usually that's from lack of oil. The other cause is incorrect bearing clearance, but that's probably not the case here...
You caught it before the bearing got completely tore up, and you may have saved the crank. You have to use some plasiguage when you put that together, and I would do it twice. Once with the crank at TDC and then again with the crank rotated 90° to make damn sure the journal is round and the clearance is ok all the way around.
IS that the rod on the right hand side? May have been from idling on the kick stand with low oil.
I was passing a semi on the highway when it finally craped out. I limped a few miles home, no idea how it managed to no get completely mangled.
Whip it like a mule!
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- Tyrell Corp
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Good tip, measure twice in two positions if in doubt
1980 Gpz550 D1, 1981 GPz550 D1. 1982 GPz750R1. 1983 z1000R R2. all four aces
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1978 KZ650 b-2
700cc Wiseco kit 10 to 1.
1980 KZ750 cam, ape springs, stock clutch/ Barnett springs.
Vance and Hines Header w/ comp baffle and Ape pods, Dyna S and green coils, copper wires.
29MM smooth bores W/ 17.5 pilots, 0-6s and 117.5 main
16/42 gearing X ring chain and alum rear JT sprocket.
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- dom2570
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Whip it like a mule!
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