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Under Powered
- H-Bomb
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I recently bought my first ever bike restoration project - a 1976 KZ750 Twin - and have done some basic work to customise it a little into a scrambler.
Since I bought it I have put new air filters (RAM), and oil change and new oil filter and some styling edits.
I bought it cheap off a dealer who was about as spivy and untrustworthy as they come, and he refused to give me a 3 month warranty, but did drop the price, so I took the risk.
I am now finding the bike is under powered - and when pulling away from standstill seems to drop power even if I open up the throttle.
I am piss poor at the moment so loathe to take it to a garage - can anyone suggest what might be wrong so I can have a go at fixing myself?
My guesses would be:
1. Carbs
2. spark plugs
3. Head gasket - loss of compression?
4. Fuel filter - though I doubt this is it as it revs ok in neutral - but still not quite right
Would seriously appreciate any help if anyone knows what this might be!
Thanks KZ RIDERS!
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- jackleberry
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After the valves have been adjusted, then do a compression test. If the compression is good, then consider yourself lucky because you shouldn't have to do anything else to the motor for a while.
I also recommend ditching the pod filters, but you should also open up the carbs and while you're cleaning them, make sure that the PO didn't mess with the jetting and, if they did, set it back to stock.
1997 KZ1000P (P16)
2001 KZ1000P (P20)
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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Steve
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- H-Bomb
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DOH!
I have no idea how to adjust carbs or valves, so I will need to Youtube to learn...
Thanks!
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- Tyrell Corp
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- "You were made as well as we could make you"
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1980 Gpz550 D1, 1981 GPz550 D1. 1982 GPz750R1. 1983 z1000R R2. all four aces
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- H-Bomb
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Does that shed some new light? am i only on 1 cyclinder?!
I'm new to this as you can likely tell!
thanks
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- pete greek1
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did you check & replace the spark plugs?
did you check to see if you're getting spark to the cylinder that's running cold ?
Pete
1980 LTD 1000..,1976 LTD 900, have the 1000&900 now. the rest are previous= 1978 KZ 650 B.., 1980 Yamaha XT 500..,1978 Yamaha DT 400.., 1977 Yamaha yz 80..,Honda trail ct 70.., Honda QA 50...5-1/2 hp brigs & straton CAT chopper mini bike...3-1/2 hp mini bike (WHEN GAS WAS ABOUT 45 CENTS A GALLON)!!!!
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- H-Bomb
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How do you check for the spark?
Love this forum so much help!
Cheers all!
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- missionkz
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might turn into a love hate relationship if you don't try to help yourself too....#1. Get a service manual and owners manual and do a little homework. It's much easier for participants to help you if you are also working out basics yourself.H-Bomb wrote: hi pete, no i did not!
How do you check for the spark?
Love this forum so much help!
Cheers all!
And piss poor is no excuse for not even asking help on finding a service manual ! Lol
Bruce
1977 KZ1000A1
2016 Triumph T120 Bonneville
Far North East Metro Denver Colorado
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- LineArtist
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You my have a fouled spark plug, bad coil, bad points and condensers (if you have them), weak voltage going to the coils from the battery. Have you checked your timing and points? Could also be a stuck timing advancer, but that would not equate to having one cylinder out. Compression test, clean carburetor... all this information is included in the Kawasaki Factory Service Manual, it will be the best $20-60 you will spend on your scrambler and save you much more as time goes on.
"Revs ok in neutral"... I would start with points and timing
Here is a Service Manual for sale on Ebay , just make sure your particular bike year and model is listed on the back cover of the book before you buy it.
...just my 79 cents
'79 KZ650B3 (stock)
'79 KZ650B3 (parts bike)
'06 HD 883R
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- 650ed
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Step 1 should be to get the bike performing properly before modifying anything. These bikes ran quite well when new and still do when properly maintained. Do a full tune up; change ALL fluids; etc. That way you establish a baseline from which you can measure the benefits or detriments of any changes you make. If a change makes things better (somewhat unlikely) great; if the change makes things worse remove the change or keep working at it until that change gives satisfactory results. Do one change at a time so you're not dealing with too many variables at once.
Unfortunately, in this case undoing at least some of the changes may be difficult if parts have been thrown out. I guess that can be chalked up in the lessons learned category, so it may not happen on the next project. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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