I think I've blown a head gasket

No. Do a compression test. If it's blown, it would be a good time to install Viton valve guide seals.
I've had one blow in between cylinders.
Steve

swest wrote: No. Do a compression test. If it's blown, it would be a good time to install Viton valve guide seals.
I've had one blow in between cylinders.
Steve

Compression test is on the list this weekend after I check the valve clearances. If that head is coming off it is going directly to the machine shop for a rework and my riding days are done this year. It's been a good month.

That sucks.
Steve

swest wrote: That sucks.
Steve

Yes it does.

I measured the valve gaps and they are all in spec, Compression is 120, 125, 145 and 155 which is outside 10%. Before I tore into it I rode it up the street to Oreilly's and it was acting up even though I was going at lower speeds. The headers didn't have gaskets in them at all which would explain the ticking noise on the right side and probably the soot as the nuts came right off the studs with hardly any effort.

So, I might still have a head gasket issue probably between #1 & #2. or I might have an ignition issue I I need to figure out.

Sometimes old gasket are hard to see because they get all sooty, it's best if you use a curved pick & see if they are in there by picking & scraping a little, without crush gaskets you would've heard a lot of loud ticking & your flanges would've been black with soot
Pete

I doubt it's the head gasket. May come up with use.
Steve

I'll double check pete but I rooted around in there pretty good.

I hope you're right Steve. I'll move on to possible ignition faults.

Vent in the tank clear?
Petcock strainer and sediment bowl
fuel lines
carb vents clear
pilots clear
inline fuel filters

spark advance
points and condensers, if electronic, (suspect)
Faulty plug-s
Plug cap connection and or HT lead connections to the coils.
coils
Faulty connections, kill switch, ignition switch, coil connectors coil leads grounding against hot pipe. (I had this happen)
If all checks out, jack up the headlight and replace the motorcycle. :lol: :whistle:
Steve

I just noticed you have CV carbs. Did you do the thumb test?
Steve

swest wrote: Vent in the tank clear? . . . .

Would be my first task.

Test run with the cap ajar (not snapped down), which assures more than adequate tank venting.

Would also remove the petcock and clean its screens that project into the tank.

Perhaps crud suspended in the fuel is collecting around the petcock screens.
Would flush the fuel tank using the fast dump method by removing the tank and holding it upside down while dumping it through the open fuel cap.
Add some fresh gasoline, shake the tank, and repeat the fast dump.
Repeat as needed to assure all loose crud, rust specks, paint over-spray, and any other impurities or foreign matter is removed from the tank.

If the tank is rusty inside, may require rust removal, And there are several different very good methods of removing the internal rust. To the point of having the tank interior look new and pristine.

Any crud inside the fuel tank, or prospective crud inside the fuel tank due to rust build-up, invites future clogging of the petcock screens.

Good Fortune!

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I have two on mine.
Steve

I'll be running down the list of possibles.

I have the same filter as the second one you listed Steve since the carbs have been rebuilt and that's clean. i am also using a clear fuel line so I know there is fuel in the line. If it is fuel related it's either vent or petcock screen. I'm pretty certain it's not vacuum since it's now definitely acting the same on prime.

What's the thumb test?