KZ440, Valve noise after adjustment.

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01 Sep 2015 11:13 - 01 Sep 2015 11:14 #688186 by V3DT
From what I've been reading most seem to say some valve noise is normal if the clearance is set right. No noise is bad because the valves are likely not fully closing & can burn though others say if it's making noise it's still not adjusted right.

I had checked each side 4 times after making the adjustments before putting the covers back on.





Here is a video of it running.

Last edit: 01 Sep 2015 11:14 by V3DT.

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01 Sep 2015 14:33 #688216 by jackleberry
Replied by jackleberry on topic KZ440, Valve noise after adjustment.
Well, if you used a feeler gauge, then it should be correct... Who cares what it sounds like?

I can't really hear anything unusual in your video.

Did you let it warm up? Or was that a cold start? Valve noise should diminish after 10 minutes or so of running.

Exhaust leaks can also make a ticking type noise. Have you checked the torque on the exhaust collar nuts?

If you take a long screwdriver and put the handle to your ear, you can sometimes localize the source of engine noises by pressing the tip of the screwdriver to different parts of the motor.

1997 KZ1000P (P16)
2001 KZ1000P (P20)

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02 Sep 2015 07:25 - 02 Sep 2015 07:25 #688290 by diggerdanh
Replied by diggerdanh on topic KZ440, Valve noise after adjustment.
I've heard it said a few times when relating to motorcycles that "Noisy valves are happy valves". Of course that shouldn't be taken to extremes but a lot of riders recommend erring on the higher side of the specs.
Last edit: 02 Sep 2015 07:25 by diggerdanh.

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02 Sep 2015 08:16 - 02 Sep 2015 08:40 #688304 by V3DT
Replied by V3DT on topic KZ440, Valve noise after adjustment.

diggerdanh wrote: I've heard it said a few times when relating to motorcycles that "Noisy valves are happy valves". Of course that shouldn't be taken to extremes but a lot of riders recommend erring on the higher side of the specs.


I let the bike sit over night to get back down to ambient temperature & checked it again on the side that seemed to be where the noise was the loudest. It was fine though I tighten the intake a little more with the feeler gauge in between to where I had to give the feeler gauge a few wiggles to get it back out. The feeler gauge I'm using is right in the middle of the spec.



I put everything back together & adjusted the pilot screws on the carbs back to 3 turns out while I still had the tank off, I had been messing with them a few weeks ago & had them set to 2 - 1/4 turns out but 3 turns out seemed to be where it idled the best last time I messed with them though I read somewhere that 2 - 1/4 turns out is stock.

Anyways I started the bike up with the choke & it only needed it for about 15 seconds. That is about the quickest I've ever been able to remove the choke & have it keep idling from a complete cold start. Throttle response is great & really the bike seems to be running the best I've ever seen it run. I still hear the valve noise at idle even once the engine is warmed up but they're within spec & it's running fine so I don't think I should worry about it.
Last edit: 02 Sep 2015 08:40 by V3DT.

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