1981 KZ750 LTD Valve Clearance...

Hello all,
New to the forum and new to KZ's, also especially new to using shims for valve clearance adjustments. Just got the bike and as part of its "acceptance teardown" I checked the valve clearances. They are all pretty close to the tight side of spec (between 0.06mm and 0.11mm, read they should all be between 0.08mm-0.18mm).

Now I understand the idea behind the shims, my issue is that I am getting conflicting information on how to change them. I printed out the technical article on the site here as well as looking at the factory manual for it. The forum here says I can do it without removing the camshaft and can use a special tool to hold the valve and remove the shim. The manual and my eyes tell me that the shim is under a tappet and the only way to get it/change it, is to remove the camshafts.

Which way is correct? Do I have to remove the camshafts or can I still use a nifty tool? I really don't want to remove camshafts (laziness, why oh why couldn't there simply be an adjustment screw and locknut??) if I left the clearances the way they are would this damage anything or just rob me of power? Thank you all for the answers!

-Kevin

Kevin, you do have to remove the cams. I'd do them one by one after taking accurate readings. That way you won't change the timing unless you slip up. Once adjusted you will be good to go for 3-4000 miles. If not done, they can close up and start burning valves. If you're in the middle of spec, you're Ok for a while.
Steve

If it is a 4 cylinder, then the cams come out, if it is a twin, they do not.

Good point.
Steve

Thanks for the answers guys! My next question, is do I need to remove the cams completely, or will I have enough room if I just take the caps off, and lift the cam up (one at a time) to get at the buckets?

It is very important that you follow the detailed instructions in the Kawasaki Service Manual for changing shims and that you have the appropriate tools including a small torque wrench calibrated in INCH pounds. Otherwise you run the risk of installing cams wrong and bending valves, stripping the cam cap bolts threads in the cylinder head, or doing other damage that is expensive to repair. The manual is worth its weight in gold, and that's no joke.

You MUST remove the cam to remove the buckets and shims under it. I highly recommend you first take photos showing the cam marker positions relative to the cylinder head and the crankshaft position at the ignition advancer. Also, put witness marks on the cam chain and the cam sprockets so you know without a doubt where to reset them. Also, do ONE cam at a time as that will make it easier to reinstall the cam in its proper position since the other cam can be used with the photos as a reference point. Also, stuff a rag in the cam chain tunnel when you start so if you drop a bolt it will not fall into the abyss. Ed