KZ550 Head Gasket

Looks like you're out of oil.
Steve

swest wrote: Looks like you're out of oil.
Steve

The bike was on its sidestand in the pic

Got it.
Steve

Before surgery I always use some release fluid, like 'plus gas' or similar...(not WD40 !) spray onto the exhaust nuts and also the 5 x M6 nuts that hold the head to the block. Also spray some down the head studs, the block can stick here. 'Wasting' a few mins here can save hours of wasted time drilling out snapped studs etc.

You have checked your valve clearances already?

Are you buying a gasket kit or each gasket individually?

I used liquid wrench on all the screws and bolts that needed to come out. I snapped a valve cover screw last winter and I didn't want to relive that experience. I did the valve clearance check a couple days ago. I need to replace 2 of my intake shims.

I bought the complete gasket kit from Z1 a couple days ago. It comes with every engine gasket. I'm still waiting for it to come in the mail

Is it leaking from the head to cylinder or is it between the case and cylinders? I didn't read where you pinpointed the leak/seep.

My experience with head gaskets on a stock engine, is the factory all metal ones work better than the aftermarket fibrous ones.

I also agree if you have the head off, send it out for a rebuild. I know APE can replace those stock steel valve guides with bronze ones in the rebuild process.

It's more work but highly recommended to replace the cylinder base gasket and valve stem seals while the head is off. Also, make sure you set the valve clearances before calling your top end rebuild DONE. Doing a little more work upfront will pay off in the end.

Sage advice.
Steve

I was thinking about doing the base gasket too because it looks like only a few more bolts and it comes off. I cant find a socket set small enough to fit in to get the bolts undone though.
I checked the valve clearances once using the Clymer manual. Apparently the factory manual says I need to measure with the cam lobes facing the side of the engine instead of 180 degrees from the valve. Is it possible to check the valve clearances with the head on a bench or does it need to be attached to the rest of the engine?

You can test it on the bench just like you said. You should replace the valve guide seals while you're at it and check the valves and guides.
Steve

Ok cool. I'll remeasure them today. I checked the valves when I pulled the head off and they all look good. The engine just turned 10,000 miles last week so I wasn't expecting many problems in terms of engine wear. The bike was sitting for 7 years before I purchased it so the dried up gaskets are the main problem. The engine kit I ordered comes with every gasket and seal so I'll replace everything just to be sure